Instead of resting after a long, dry summer of watering the vegetable garden, it's time to get busy digging those spring-flowering bulbs for the flower beds.

Hardy spring-flowering bulbs are best planted in late summer to early fall. These are tulips, narcissus, daffodils, jonquils, hyacinths and anemone. The exception is lilies, which are best planted in the late fall.

Most bulbs need full sunshine. Make sure to select a site that will provide at least five to six hours of direct sunlight per day. Those bulbs that are left out all year should have eight to 10 hours of sunlight.

Be creative. If you're seeking a naturalized effect, toss the bulbs and plant them where they land.

Good drainage is the key to healthy bulbs and flowers. Most bulbs won't tolerate poor drainage and will rot easily if the area to be planted is too wet. Dig the beds when the soil is dry.

Turn the soil at least 8 to 12 inches deep. Remember to remove large stones and debris, but leave any organic matter like leaves and grass that can decay, and thus feed the bulbs.

If you prefer to use a fertilizer, a 5-10-10 is recommended for a 5-by-10 foot area. Mix the fertilizer and organic matter with the soil. Add the fertilizer and then cover with a layer of soil.

Bone meal is another good supplement to feed bulbs after they have bloomed. Follow the package directions, which usually are a teaspoon per clump of bulbs. Always wear gloves when handling bone meal.

Always check the package label for planting depth., but a good rule of thumb to follow is 2½ to 3 inches the diameter of the bulb in depth.

When winter is approaching, usually after the first frost, mulch the bulbs 2 to 4 inches deep with organic matter like straw, pine bark, hay or ground leaves. Winter mulch prevents the freezing and thawing cycles.

Fall is also the time to dig up those summer-flowering bulbs that can't overwinter, like cannas, caladium and dahlia. Dig after the leaves turn yellow. Use a spading fork to lift them from the ground.

Don't wash the dirt off these bulbs because it helps hold some moisture. Store them in clumps or layers up to three deep on peat moss or sawdust in a cool place. Rinse and separate them before planting in the spring after the last frost.

Jennifer Frohnapfel is a member of the Penn State Master Gardeners of Butler County. She has been certified for two years.