Barbecue enthusiasts get very touchy when people confuse their craft of slowly melting meat to succulence with the act of mere grilling, that is, slapping protein onto well-oiled grates.

But haute grillmeister Adam Perry Lang honors both techniques in "Serious Barbecue," a comprehensive yet approachable new book from Hyperion that promises a full summer of tasty and relaxed outdoor cooking.

The book does little to dispel the idea of outdoor cooking as a man's game, but it does offer excellent tutorials on the basics and offers more than 100 intensely flavorful recipes that can shepherd your grilling skills from novice to expert.

Perry Lang's breezy discussion of tools, grills, cooking with wood and charcoal, and picking the right piece of meat provides useful direction for beginners — and pure bliss for the barbecue obsessed. The recipes themselves deliver the promised glories.

From intense, time-consuming affairs like "Get a Book" Whole Beef Brisket to spur-of-the-moment whimsies such as Beer-and-Caraway Braised Bratwurst, Perry Lang aims to build flavor "brick by brick, layer by layer."

That means some recipes within recipes, and steps like meat injection that might intimidate. But his liberal use of seasoning blends, glazes, basting butter and sauces — sometimes all at once — yield deep, complex flavors even in the quick-cooking dishes.

Spice-crusted Thick Rib Pork Chops unfurl smoky, chili-induced heat little by little, and temper it with a touch of honey and lemon. Grilled artichokes bathed in anchovy butter make you suck the tender leaves for just one more hit of umami.

Perry Lang's grilled corn on the cob is an example of what he does best, turning an ordinary midsummer staple into a gourmet endeavor loaded with cilantro and lime. For all of these recipes, the cooking times and techniques are right on the money, letting even beginners deliver charred, yet juicy morsels.

Though he offers a guide to sources, some items like Ancho chili power can be difficult to find, so plan ahead (you might have to order online). The book also is big, hardback and heavy — but maybe that will help it survive alongside your grill. With recipes for Carmel Smoked Bacon, Worcestershire Marinated Rib Eye, Paella and even Pig Trotters, that's exactly where it should be.

When grilling these chops, it is best to move them to a clean area of the grate when flipped during the initial charring. Depending on the grill size, they might need to be cooked in batches to ensure there is a clean portion of the grill to flip to.Start to finish: 45 minutes (plus 12 to 24 hours brining)<B>Brine:1 tablespoon red pepper flakes2 tablespoons boiling water4 cups apple cider2 cups cool water¼ cup kosher salt¼ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar4 garlic cloves, mincedSix 1½-inch-thick pork rib chops (8 to 10 ounces each)Seasoning blend:2 tablespoons mild chili powder2 tablespoons mustard powder1 tablespoon garlic salt1 teaspoon finely ground black pepper1 teaspoon cayenne pepperDressing:½ cup extra-virgin olive oilJuice of 1 lemon3 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley1 tablespoon honey1 medium shallot, peeled and finely grated1 small garlic clove, minced¼ cup canola or vegetable oil8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted1 bunch thyme sprigs, tied together in a bundleFleur de sel or kosher saltFinely ground black pepper</B>In a large bowl, combine the red pepper flakes and boiling water. Let sit for 1 to 2 minutes to rehydrate the flakes. Add the cider, cool water, salt, brown sugar and garlic. Stir until the sugar is dissolved.Place the chops in an extra-large zip-close plastic bag (or divide between 2 large bags). Pour the brine over the chops, squeeze out any excess air, then seal the bag and refrigerate for at least 12 hours, or up to one day.When ready to cook, heat one grate of a well-oiled charcoal or gas grill to medium-high and the other to medium-low.To make the seasoning blend, in a small bowl, mix together the chili powder, mustard powder, garlic salt, black pepper and cayenne. Set aside.To make the dressing, in a jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the olive oil, lemon juice, parsley, honey, shallot and garlic. Shake well, then set aside.Remove the pork chops from the brine, letting any excess brine remain in the bag. Lightly pat dry the chops with paper towels. Sprinkle the seasoning blend evenly on all sides of the chops.Using your hands or a brush, evenly but lightly coat the chops with the canola oil.Place the chops on the medium-high grate, and grill with the lid open until they are well marked and lightly charred, about 3 minutes. Flip, still over medium-high, to a clean part of the grate, then grill with the lid open for another 3 minutes.Brush the chops with butter using the thyme bundle. Move to the medium-low grate and close the lid. Open the lid every few minutes, turning and moving the chops as needed.Cook for about 9 minutes for medium, about 12 minutes for medium well, and about 15 minutes for well-done. Remove from the heat and brush with butter using the thyme bundle.Give the dressing a quick shake and drizzle about half on a cutting board. Top with the chops and let rest for about 5 minutes.Cut the chops to separate the meat from the bone and slice the meat on a diagonal into Z\v-inch slices, drizzling with the remaining dressing, and making sure all slices are coated. Sprinkle with fleur de sel and pepper. Makes 8 servings.<B><I>Recipe from Adam Perry Lang's "Serious Barbecue" Hyperion, 2009</I></B>