I’ve never met an egg dish I didn’t like. But at the tippy top of my list of favorites is the edible magic trick known as the souffled omelet.

The magic is built into the whites of the egg. A three-egg omelet made the usual way comprises a substantial meal for one person. But a souffled omelet made with three whole eggs —plus two whites — makes the traditional omelet look like a midget and is more than enough for two people.

Though I personally have never wavered in my partisanship, eggs have shown up now and again as a target of the food police. Eggs are high in cholesterol! Happily, the most recent studies question whether the sort of cholesterol found in eggs is what we need to be worried about.

In a nod to the wonderful Greek omelets you can find in diners from coast to coast, this recipe stars spinach and feta cheese. Of course, you’re welcome to swap in any kind of sautéed greens and any kind of lean-ish cheese, be it goat cheese or low-fat cheese made from cow’s milk. But whatever you do, don’t leave out the grated lemon zest. It brightens up the whole dish.

By the way, a souffled omelet (like a regular omelet) is the perfect wrapper for zillions of fillings. Leftover cooked broccoli, peppers, mushrooms, corn, peas, almost any vegetable will always find a happy home in an omelet.

This recipe serves two. For four people, prepare a double batch, pour it into two medium skillets, then bake them in the oven at the same time.