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Squid, calamari: What's the difference?

QUESTION: Is there a difference between calamari and squid? My whole family enjoys fried calamari and I was told that they are interchangeable. I use a mixture of egg and breadcrumbs, dipping the calamari in egg first, then breadcrumbs. Is there another method for crispy calamari?

ANSWER: The word calamari is the plural for calamaro, which is the Italian word for squid. So anyone who hasn't had too many alcoholic beverages along with their calamari would obviously think that since calamari is the Italian word for squid, they must be one in the same. In fact, all around the Mediterranean, a dish involving fried squid is called fried calamari. So you think I've answered your question, don't you? Not so fast. Believe it or not, there is a difference between calamari and squid, although most people can't distinguish one from the other.For you, the best way to identify the difference is that calamari's wings/flaps are longer and more triangular and spread all the way across their bodies. Whereas squid has smaller, pointier wings/flaps that are very narrow at the end.Many cooks will tell you that they prefer calamari, because they say it's more tender and juicier than squid. They'll also say for frying and grilling, calamari outperforms squid. These same cooks will try to convince you that squid is best for braising and stewing, or a baked dish where you stuff them but they are in the oven for quite awhile. As soon as you have bought into this seafood propaganda, you're going to find many cooks who will tell you the opposite is true.The funny thing is, it wasn't that long ago here in the States that squid and calamari, along with their cousins the octopus and cuttlefish, were thought of as food only in the sense that they were put on a hook. These creatures would become the food used to catch the food that would end up on your plate. We call this in the recreational fishing industry, BAIT.Be careful of the trickle-down effect. Especially for those who don't think the humans leave a footprint on the environment. Due to the popularity of shark fishing for food and for sport, especially off the Northeast coast, there is a shortage of calamari. No, it's not because the sharks eat the calamari. Sharks eat skate, which in turn feed on calamari. With no shark to eat the skate, the skate are abundant and feeding more on the calamari/squid. So this thing that was once called bait has now become as expensive as the thing it was luring to the hook. And, just like crab cakes, it is illegal to print a menu without calamari on it.So should you shop for calamari or squid? My opinion is that it's more important to get a fresh, good product than to worry about whether or not it is true squid or calamari. Regardless of which one you buy, try to choose those that are medium in size. The larger ones end up getting tough, and if they are too small you don't get decent sized rings. Unless you are stuffing and baking them (so in other words if you are grilling, sauteing or frying) they should be cooked very quickly at high heat. This will help keep them juicy and tender. And if you are grilling them, I personally prefer to grill them quickly and serve them at room temperature (or even chilled) drizzled with a little olive oil.It's not like your method of cooking calamari is way off base, just make sure that your oil is nice and hot whether using your recipe or one I am giving you. You can use store-bought breadcrumbs, panko, or crumbs made from stale bread to coat the calamari/squid. You can also use cornmeal or uncooked rice, as in the recipes below. Enjoy!

Vegetable oil or extra light olive oil for frying1 cup yellow cornmeal1 cup all purpose flour2 teaspoons each of kosher salt and freshly ground pepper1 teaspoon cayenne pepper2 pounds fresh or thawed frozen small calamari, bodies cleaned and cut into ½-inch-wide rings, tentacles reserved2 lemons, each cut into 6 wedgesAdd enough vegetable oil to another large skillet to come 1 inch up sides of pan. Heat oil to 375 degrees.Mix with a whisk the cornmeal, flour, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper in medium bowl to blend. Toss calamari rings and tentacles into the cornmeal mixture, shaking off excess. Working in batches, fry calamari in oil until brown and crisp, about 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer calamari to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and pepper if needed. Serve with lemons for squeezing. (Each recipe serves 8 as an appetizer)Vegetable oil or extra light olive oil for frying2 pounds cleaned calamari1/3 cup buttermilk for moistening1½ cups uncooked Arborio rice3 cups all-purpose flour1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds1½ tablespoons Kosher salt2 teaspoons freshly ground pepperTo make the rice coating, grind the rice in a blender until very fine. In a bowl, stir together the ground rice, flour, fennel, salt and pepper.Slit the calamari bodies open so they lie flat. Place the calamari, in a separate bowl. Toss each with enough buttermilk to moisten them.Heat several inches of oil to 375 degrees in a deep fryer or deep pot. While oil heats, drain the calamari, then place some of it in a strainer over a large bowl. Sprinkle generously with rice coating and shake; repeat until the calamari is very well-coated.Fry until golden brown and crisp, then transfer to a tray lined with paper towels. Season immediately with salt. Keep warm in a low oven. Repeat with the remaining calamari, and serve with lemon slices.

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