Brewery Biz Hopping
Knowing your community and inviting the community to know you are key ingredients to success in the craft beer industry, if you listen to Recon Brewing co-owner Dave Bestwick.
Both Recon and the craft beer scene in Butler County have been growing “beyond our expectations and projections,” since Recon opened on Route 8 in Center Township in May 2017, Bestwick said.
Sales of craft beers in 2017 increased 8 percent, up to $26 billion and now account for more than 23 percent of the nation's $111.4 billion beer market, according to the national Brewers Association. Craft brewing supports more than 135,000 jobs across the United States.
In Pennsylvania alone, 282 craft breweries produced 3.724 million barrels of beer in 2017.
That's 12 gallons of beer for every adult of legal drinking age.
Bestwick said he sees the popularity growing daily as newcomers walk in, try something and develop a taste for a favored IPA, stout or lager.
In Butler County, North Country Brewing in Slippery Rock led the wave, opening in 2005, and steadily built a confident customer draw.
Now, North Country and Recon have a six-pack of peers: Reclamation and Butler Brew Works in the city, Missing Links in Butler Township, the Harmony Inn offers “The Snug Series,” Shubrew in Zelienople, Cellar Works in Sarver and the newest addition, Stick City in Mars.
The brewers seem to agree that their growing ranks are more complimentary and cooperative than competitive.
“Everyone wants to see what's different,” said Jack Cohen, president of the Butler County Tourism and Convention Bureau. “Each brewery has different tastes and passions and that's reflected in their beer.”
Bob McCafferty, co-owner of North Country, likened the brewers to “gardeners comparing tomatoes. We help each other out more like a team than competition.”
Cohen said there's no way to measure how many people the craft beer scene draws to the county. But anecdotally, he said, “We know they're busy. We see the lines and traffic … It's a hot topic.”The tourism bureau rolled out its “Butler County Beer Circuit” this spring. It's a self-guided tour similar to the county's popular farm tour.But there are plans, Cohen said, to add a means of transporting visitors along the brewery trail. “A 'leave the driving to us' sort of thing,” he said.Tim Bauer, one of three owners of Cellar Works, estimates about half of his customers live less than five miles from the brewery. Another 25 percent are from within 15 miles and the rest are from Pittsburgh, he said.“We are pleasantly surprised with the variety of people who come in who don't fit the stereotypical 'craft beer' persona,” Bauer said. “They really aren't hipsters in skinny jeans. They are farmers looking for a good IPA.”Cellar Works, which opened at 110 S. Pike Road in 2017, prides itself in brewing classic styles and with little or no adjunct. You aren't likely to find peanut butter or jalapeño peppers in its beer.Both Bauer and co-owner John Lasher have day jobs as engineers, and their beer theory follows suit. They're attentive to the details, math and science of malts, hops, pH and other brewing intricacies.“John has an intense exploration of knowledge. When it comes to learning, he's all in. He doesn't come up for air,” Bauer said, noting that the brewery's third partner is Lasher's wife, Laura.Cellar Works, which runs on a five-barrel system, offers eight taps of its own beer.“Be excellent or be gone,” Bauer said of their willingness to pitch a batch if taste doesn't meet their standard.Precision troubleshooting and attention to one of all breweries' constant chores — cleaning — are priorities, he said.“We clean more than we brew,” Bauer said.Even the brewery's name, originally Cellar Door, is reflective of the men's engineering background.“It had a nice algorithm,” Bauer said.With beer names like “Buck Snort Stout” and “Squirrel's Nut Brown,” you cannot miss the rustic touch to North Country's brand vibe.
McCafferty, who lives on a 64-acre farm, said he feels blessed to live in a community with wonderful outdoor offerings. And those amenities get built right into his business model: Fruit and vegetables raised on the farm are ingredients in his products. Spent grain goes back to the animals for feed.On the day of his interview, McCafferty delivered turkey eggs to the Harmony Inn, which he and his co-owner and wife Jodi took over in 2014.McCafferty, who studied archeology in college, said he felt he'd reached the end of the line in that field when he decided to open his first brewery. He said he picked Slippery Rock after identifying the community's potential during his field party days.“It was a dry town when I bought (North Country),” he said. “And people thought I was crazy.”In addition to the two restaurants, which both offer kitchens, the company also owns its own canning facility and today employs about 180 people.McCafferty said he is selective about the people he hires and the food he serves.“We look for people who smile from within,” he said. “Everything you do and everyone involved is part of your brand.”Similarly, Recon can't help but wear its personality on its sleeve. It's flagship beer, “BRC” is named after the Bantam Reconnaissance Car, the Jeep prototype invented in Butler.“We believe you get out of the community what you put into the community,” Bestwick said.Bestwick and co-owners Toby Wehr and Nathan Bacher have a combined 75 years of community service. Bestwick is the fire chief at Butler Township Fire District Station No. 3; Wehr is the former chief; and Bacher, the brewer, is a longtime paramedic.Noting that both he and Wehr “grew up in the mill” as former AK Steel/Armco employees, Bestwick said, “We have blue-collar, hard-working roots and it is our goal to make well-balanced beers that taste good and are affordable.”Recon also offers a kitchen and visits by popular food trucks and live entertainment. Pennsylvania breweries also may offer any alcohol that is made in this state. While some breweries fashion cocktails from state-made vodka and rum or offer locally sourced meads, Recon sticks to its own beers on a nine-tap bar, Pennsylvania wines and ciders.Bestwick said he and Wehr did a lot of research before opening Recon. Both men travel frequently for their full-time jobs. Bestwick buys and sells commodities and Wehr works for a safety training and consulting business. Combined, the two men visit about 300 to 400 breweries a year, and they used those experiences to inspire their “mission.”“What we learned is to use the strengths of your community is your business … for the seating, for the beer styles, for everything,” Bestwick said. “People take the time out of their day to come here and give you their money. That is amazing, and for that we are forever grateful.”
