QUESTION: We planted two crape myrtles in the late fall. They are doing really well. They are still bushes, though. At what point should I start pruning them into a tree shape? I don't want to choose the wrong season or start snipping at them too early in their development.ANSWER: In their youth, it's good to let those plants get established and grow a good root system. Late next winter, you can begin to train the plant into tree form by removing side branches on the lower half of the main trunks. At that time, select three or four main trunks that are reasonably straight and evenly spaced in a sort of circle. That will be the framework of your tree and you will want to keep the lower half (and more as the tree grows) clean of growth so the crape myrtles look like trees, not bushes.

QUESTION: You advocate dividing after flowering for most perennials. But it's really hot already and I want to do less strenuous things now. Can this be postponed to milder weather?ANSWER: Of course. One of the many assets that the Piedmont offers gardeners is a very long autumn during which much of the serious work of gardening gets done. Spring and summer-flowering perennials that are dug, divided and replanted in early autumn will have a long time to get settled in their new spot before growth resumes in spring.These plants will be less subject to wilting during hot, dry weeks than are ones planted in late spring and summer. I plant now because I cannot resist buying new things as they show up in garden centers. But new plants set out now and ones dug, divided and replanted now require the closest attention to watering when the sun is hot and rainfall is erratic --- sort of the way it is now. So enjoy the less strenuous things now, like deadheading annuals and perennials.