Whether it's landing the big one or just having a more enjoyable day on the water, it's often the little things that make the difference.

Here are a few tips along that line:

The glue that bonds

Super glue is one of the handiest products to carry in the boat. It can be used to mend a torn soft plastic bait, bond a twister-tail to a jighead, and even close a minor cut when you don't have a bandage handy.

A common problem rears its unattractive head, though, when you attempt to use a not-so-fresh bottle of the stuff and discover the applicator has clogged shut or the product has hardened in the container.

Behold the solution: Loctite's brush-on super glue. This format features a finely trimmed brush that helps you put the product right where you want it.

The bottle includes a clever tilted arrangement, which allows the user to load the brush with just the right amount of glue.

Save those pricey baits

Weary of the financial sting of torn soft swimbaits detracting from the joy of a good bass bite? Assemble a swimbait first-aid kit to get the most bass for your buck.

Most soft swimbaits rely on a belly-weighed hook for the stability necessary to swim correctly. Damage occurs when the hook breaks free during the strike or ensuing battle, often resulting in a split nose that won't hold the hook securely.

A dab of super glue often will mend it for another fish or two. The next step is to glue the screw lock itself to the nose, which often will extract a bonus fish or two.

First-aid measures are fine for mending baits in the boat. At home, though, you can take them to the operating table.

Bend one tine of a paper clip free, heat it lightly over the kitchen stove's burner and use it to soften both inside edges of the tear.

Squeeze it together for a few minutes and the bait will be fit for action again.

Save deeply hooked fish

The present crop of soft baits closely mimics the flavor and scent of the real thing. While good in many ways, these qualities also result in more deeply hooked bass. The Bill Dance Advantage Hook Remover goes a long way toward ensuring their survival.

This hook remover sports a long, slender stem that reaches into bass of all sizes. A squeeze of the T-handle securely locks the business end on the shank of the hook.

The device is simple to use: Slip the open slot of the pincher around the hook shank, then slide the tool down as far as possible toward the bend of the hook.

When the hook is in the gullet, exerting a light pull on the line often exposes much more of the hook, which makes the process go better.

When the pincher is down as far as possible, lock it on the shank and then rotate your wrist to pop the hook back out in the opposite direction.

The vast majority of the time the hook releases with no tissue damage or bleeding, which leaves both angler and bass happy.

Thoughts on circle hooks

Circle hooks gradually are finding favor with anglers, particularly those concerned with deep hooking mortality issues when using either natural bait or "stationary" fake ones.

Are hook-up ratios different with various species of fish? And does it matter what style of type of bait you are using?

Hook expert Cyrille Mathieus said the primary aspect in the unsuccessful use of a circle hook remains the common act of attempting a traditional hookset.

"The hook itself is designed to rotate and lock into the jaw as the fish naturally clamps down on the bait," he said. "Setting the hook as normal can cause the fish to be gut hooked. But, in most cases, it causes the hook to pull free."

Mathieu also noted there is no difference in hook-up ratios between more aggressive biters like bass and docile ones like walleyes.

The key is not to set, but to simply tighten the line, allowing the hook to do its thing.

Jeff Knapp is an outdoors columnist for the Butler Eagle.