QUESTION: My wife and I enjoy eating General Tso's Chicken when we go out for Chinese food, and would like to try this dish at home. Do you have a recipe for this dish? Also, who is General Tso?

ANSWER: That is a very good question. Who is this General Tso? What is Tso good about his chicken? What we today call "General Tso's Chicken" was probably never enjoyed by its namesake. While nearly every American-Chinese take-out place across the country boasts this familiar dish on its menu, very few people know the real story behind it.General Tso (aka, General Tsao, General Tsung, General Tso Tsungtang, General Zuo Zongtang, etc.) was well-known for torturing his victims by making them eat the deep fried dark meat of a chicken. They would die a slow and painful death by clogging their arteries — but at least they enjoyed a good meal!Just kidding. But really, why do you think they always serve it with crisp, green broccoli? It's to make you feel better about clogging your arteries.OK, that's not the real story, and my friend, there is a real story to tell, but you'd better put down those chopsticks and pay attention. The real General Tso is as enigmatic as his culinary namesake.Tso was born in 1812 in the Hunan province, a region known for its fiery cuisine. But unlike the Szechwan type of spice that skips the frying pan and puts you right in the fire, the Hunan spiciness hardly lets you know the burner's even on. And then before you know it, your face is red and tears are pouring out of your eyes. Just like General Tso's victims (but more on that later).General Tso had a fairly peaceful start in life. He was born into a gentry family and received a classical Confucian education, earning his doctorate. Tso dropped out of public life after failing the court exams three times, which was an exercise in humility.He returned home in disgrace, got married and concentrated his studies on practical matters such as agriculture and geography. He soon began silkworm farming and tea farming, dubbing himself, "The Husbandman of the River Hsiang." Have you ever dubbed yourself anything like that? Personally, I would have gone for "King of Coleman Castle," or something a little more regal. And I'm not sure my wife would like me declaring myself the "husbandman" of anything but my "wisewoman." It's bad enough she thinks I'm married to my job. "Husbandman of Flavors of America," or "Husbandman of `The Chef's Table"' just wouldn't go over very well at all at home. Come to think of it, neither would "King of Coleman Castle." I can dream, can't I?But let's get back to talking about the "Husbandman of the River Hsiang," soon-to-be legendary military figure. Tso was 38 years old when the Taiping Rebellion broke out in 1850, and from then on, Tso became the husbandman (and expert swordsman) of the Chinese military, becoming one of the most successful military commanders in Chinese history. The Taiping Rebellion was started by Hong Xiuquan, a Chinese mystic who believed he was the younger brother of Jesus.Now without getting into trouble here, wasn't Jesus Jewish? Confucius says, "Hong, you representin'?" Or maybe that was Snoop Dogg. Anyway, Jesus' alleged Chinese brother crusaded through the provinces of China, with General Tso as his right hand slaughterer. His favorite type of execution was the "death of 10,000 cuts." As a chef, this is how I will probably meet my end, unless I stop those knife juggling tricks. Maybe this is where the name of the recipe came from as well.If you want to know what General Tso's victims looked like after he was done with them, just go take a look at the backlit picture of his dish on your local Chinese restaurant's wall.Actually, according to popular opinion, the origins of General Tso's Chicken dates way back to 1970 Manhattan. You remember those days, don't you? Well, if you were really there, then you probably don't remember them! Many people believe that just like chop suey, General Tso's Chicken was developed by Asian immigrants in New York City.Even with its lofty title, this dish is not so stately when you think about it. The ingredients are those you would find in a common stir fry and the dark meat poultry suggests a poor man's meal, or a "Private Tso's Chicken," if you will.

4 chicken legs with thighs1/2 cup soy sauce1/2 cup distilled white vinegar1/2 cup water1 clove garlic, minced1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger root1 teaspoon cornstarch1 large egg, beaten lightly1/3 cup corn oil4 dried hot chili peppers, seededBone the chicken legs, including the thighs by scraping the meat from the bone, working downward and keeping close to the bone. Pull the meat down over the bone (pulling it inside out like a glove) and cut it free from the bone. Discard the skin and cut the meat from each leg into 6 pieces.In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, cup water, the garlic, and ginger root.In another bowl, combine the egg and cornstarch. Heat the oil in a wok or deep, heavy skillet until very hot. Dip the chicken pieces in the egg mixture then add the chicken to the hot oil and fry it for 4 to 6 minutes, or until it is crisp. Transfer the chicken with tongs to paper towels to drain, and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the wok. Add the soy sauce mixture, the chili peppers, and return the chicken to the wok and cook the mixture over moderately high heat for 2 minutes, or until heated through.Transfer it to a heated serving dish.Makes 4 servings.