Sauteed shredded red cabbage and mashed potatoes will make welcome companions to the flavorful pork.

Autumn takes with one hand while it gives with the other.

The frosts of fall take away the last of summer's riches, that's true. But autumn gives us apples and cider. It's a fair trade, by my lights.

This braised pork dish suits the season nicely. We like it with crisp sautéed shredded red cabbage (add a jot of vinegar to keep its color bright) and mashed potatoes to take advantage of the flavorful braising liquids.

Drink the cider you used to cook with at dinner; if you happen to have hard cider, by all means, use it here.

You will want apples that keep their shape when cooked. Widely available good choices include Gala, Braeburn and Granny Smith. Don't bother to peel them — they'll help the dish look handsome — just core and slice them.

For dessert, an easy sauce — orange marmalade thinned with Cointreau — tops poundcake.

Menu• Cider-braised pork with onions and apples• Sautéed red cabbage• Mashed potatoes• Cider or hard cider• Poundcake with orange marmalade sauce

3½ to 4 pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of fat, cut into 1-inch cubes½ cup flour1 teaspoon saltFreshly ground peppercup vegetable oil2 onions, thinly sliced in half-moons2 apples, cored, sliced in half-moons1 cup each: cider, chicken broth1 tablespoon Dijon mustard1 teaspoon fresh thymePlace cubed pork in a large sealable bag. Season flour with salt and pepper; add to bag. Shake bag until pork is lightly covered. Remove pork from bag; discard bag.Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add half the pork; brown on all sides. Remove browned pork from Dutch oven; keep warm. Repeat with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and pork, removing from Dutch oven and keeping warm as browned.Add the onions and apples to Dutch oven. Cook, stirring often, until onions are translucent, about 6 minutes. Add cider to the Dutch oven; cook, stirring to scrape up browned bits. Heat to a boil; cook until cider has reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add chicken broth and reserved pork, along with any juices from the pork. Return to a boil; cover and reduce heat to a simmer.Cook, stirring occasionally, until pork is tender, about 2 hours. Add the mustard and thyme; cover and simmer 30 minutes longer.Makes 6 servings.Nutrition information per serving: 480 calories, 44 percent of calories from fat, 23 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 118 mg cholesterol, 23 g carbohydrates, 43 g protein, 665 mg sodium, 3 g fiber