QUESTION: This spring and summer I would like to involve my three children in making homemade ice cream. There's only one problem: I have never made ice cream before. I'm hoping you can get me started by sending me some recipes and answering the best you can the following questions. Do I have to buy an ice cream machine, and if so, what kind? Can I use a sugar substitute? Our store-bought ice cream develops crystals in the freezer. Is there a way I can make homemade ice cream that won't have this problem? I look forward to hearing from you.ANSWER: Well, you came to the right person, because the one thing I basically have no will-power over (OK, fried chicken is right up there) is ice cream. Homemade? Even more irresistible. And as far as answering your questions the best I can — well, I do try to be right at least 37 percent of the time. Today, I'm even aiming higher — so let's go.First of all, ice cream makers are really great, but you do not have to buy one to make ice cream. Just in case you don't have one, one of the recipes I'm sharing can be made without a machine in a walloping six to 10 minutes. This recipe can be made in coffee cans, large nut cans, or other containers about that size. The easiest and quickest way to make it is in good, resealable plastic bags. It's low-tech, but it works!If you want to branch out, then go get yourself an inexpensive hand-cranked ice cream machine. You can purchase one for as little as $9 or $10 on EBay, or buy a top-of-the-line model that will last forever for less than $150. Keep three things in mind before you buy one: 1) price how much you want to spend, 2) decide how easy each machine will be to use, and 3) determine how often you are going to use it. If you will be using it a lot, it's worth spending some money. If you will only dust it off to use once in awhile, you might as well go cheap. I will tell you that your kids will have a blast with an ice cream maker and you'll end up with a better finished product. More importantly, you will be able to make different styles of ice cream as well as other frozen delicacies, such as frozen custard, frozen yogurts, gelatos, etc.You mentioned using a sugar substitute, and another reason to buy an ice cream maker is that they are almost crucial for making sugar-free ice cream. They also facilitate folding in things like nuts, chocolate chips, crushed cookies or the candy to make my favorite — chocolate mint. All you need to do is slowly add these ingredients during the last couple of minutes that the machine is processing. (By the way, if you want large items added to your ice cream, such as whole cookies, small candy bars, or chunks of cookie dough, these are best folded in after the mixing and churning is done so that they don't break and clump up.To simplify things (which is always the best approach for me), we are going to divide ice cream into two styles. The first style is categorized as egg-free ice cream. At culinary school I was taught that this type is called Philadelphia-style ice cream. It is also sometimes called American or New York style — but for my homeboys, it's Philly style. This type of ice cream is delicate and rich, yet easy to make because it's basically cream, sugar, and flavorings. And this is the style of ice cream that doesn't really require an ice cream machine, but if you use one your ice cream will incorporate more air — and that is a sign of quality in the ice cream world.The second style is categorized as a custard or egg custard ice cream. It's usually just called custard-style ice cream, but in France it is often referred to as French style ice cream. I could make a joke, but I don't want anyone disparaging the Philly style. By starting with a custard base (which, by the way, is the same custard base used for making flan, creme caramel, creme brulee, and a host of other desserts), you have stabilized the ice cream mixture because the egg yolks became an emulsifier when they were gently cooked with the cream.This brings me to one of my pet peeves. Most custard recipes instruct you to cook the mixture until it coats the back of a spoon. I always thought that was crazy because it coated the back of a spoon to begin with. I like to say cook custard until it is twice as thick as when you started. It's a lot easier to do than to write about, I promise. After it is cooked and cooled down, just put it into your ice cream machine and soon enough you will have the richest, smoothest ice cream you ever tasted. Just don't admit that to the French ... or to the guys in South Philly either, for that matter.In order to make great sugar-free ice cream, all you need to do is follow almost any egg-custard based recipe and just substitute your favorite sweetener for the sugar called for. Try some variations of your own with the recipe that I am providing.Now we'll tackle the ice crystals. They are not a recipe problem, they are a freezer problem. If your ice cream (store bought or homemade) has crystals after a stint in the freezer, the best thing to do is to melt it and remix it. This can be done by hand, in a food processor, or, of course, an ice cream machine.

2½ tablespoons superfine 10X (powdered) sugar1½ cups light cream1/8 teaspoon almond extract¼ teaspoon vanilla extract1/3 cup (or more if needed) kosher or rock saltEnough ice to fill a gallon size resealable freezer bag1 Gallon size bag as described1 pint size resealable freezer bagPour the cream, sugar, and extracts into a large mixing bowl and whisk until mixed well. Carefully pour the mixture into the pint sized bag and seal. Carefully add the ice into the gallon sized bag, filling it half way. Put the pint bag into the gallon bag, seal it, and place it in the freezer. Freeze for at least 3 hours. (After 3 hours, I like to remove it from the freezer and bags and whip it in a food processor or stand mixer with a paddle attachment, to incorporate air. Freeze another 2 hours, or until firm.

1 cup heavy cream 1¼ cups milkSugar substitute for the equivalent of ½ cup sugar1¼ cups sugar free chocolate chips or shaved or crumbled sugar free chocolate3 egg yolks1/8 teaspoon kosher saltCombine 1¼ cups heavy cream, the milk, sugar substitute, and the sugar free chocolate in a large saucepan over low heat. Stir with a wire whisk until the chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth and silky. Remove from the heat. In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks and the salt until thick. Very slowly add the chocolate mixture to the bowl. Beat until well blended and then chill completely for at least one hour. Pour the chilled ice cream mixture into an ice cream maker and churn until thick. Cover and store in the freezer at least three hours before serving.