QUESTION: I'm having a barbecue party with all kinds of different meats, and I would like to serve some regional barbecue sauces. I know you are from Texas, so maybe you could send me one from there along with a Kansas City sauce and a Carolina sauce.

ANSWER: First things first, ask any of my friends and relatives if they have ever received mail from me, and I'm sure they will respond with a very colorful "NO!" In fact, I don't even do e-mail.And by the way, what are you trying to do? Start a feud? Barbecue sauces are like chili or tomato sauces; everybody has his own version. So, no matter how I try to explain the regional differences, I'm going to get letters telling me that I don't know what the heck I'm talking about. But here goes.Carolina barbecue sauce. When it comes to signature sauces from the Carolinas, you have to go to North Carolina, where the famous barbecue sauce was born. And when you've been invited to a barbecue in North Carolina, you know you're having pork for dinner. The folks in N.C. figured out that a thin, vinegar-based sauce is the best formula to complement their fantastic smoked pulled pork shoulder that takes all day to cook.Kansas City barbecue sauce. Now just to stop our wonderful postal carrier in his tracks before the letters pour in, I'm going to throw Memphis barbecue in along with Kansas City because Memphis is one of barbecue's Four Horsemen. Like Kansas City, it is part of the Mississippi River culture that generated so much good food.In Memphis, barbecue barons usually use dry rubs and focus on ribs. When sauce is served in Memphis, it's a lot like the recipe that was developed in Kansas City — a thick, sweet tomato-based preparation that usually has a good amount of onions and a dash or so of liquid smoke. As in Memphis, ribs rule in Kansas City, but there are also a lot of barbecued beef lovers in this former meat packing center.Texas barbecue sauce. The first thing any Texan will ask at a barbecue dinner is, "Where's the beef?" Sure, we barbecue all kinds of meats in my home state, but beef wears the 10-gallon hat. In the Lone Star State, barbecue sauce is tomato-based, but not as thick or sweet as in Kansas City. Many Texas sauces include mustard and many add the extra pop of heat from dried or fresh jalapenos. I'm giving you my brother Hank's recipe, so Texans who prefer another version can direct all their mail to him.We will have to see how much mail we just generated. And speaking of mail, you can wrap up your leftovers and overnight them to me.

½ cup bottled chili sauce2 tablespoons Dijon mustard2 tablespoons soy sauce2 tablespoons Tabasco or Pickapeppa sauce3 tablespoons packed light brown sugar3 tablespoons minced garlic2 teaspoons white pepperJuice of ½ lemonMix all ingredients in a sauce pan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until flavors are blended.

2 cups ketchup¼ cup finely chopped onion¼ cup brown sugar¼ cup molasses¼ cup white vinegar½ teaspoon cayenne pepper1 teaspoon celery seed1½ teaspoons garlic powder1 teaspoon ground cumin2 tablespoons prepared mustard1 teaspoon chili powderFinely ground black pepper and kosher salt to taste1 teaspoon Liquid Smoke4 tablespoons butter, cubed and chilledCombine all ingredients except butter in a sauce pan. Bring to a boil, stirring often. Reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and whisk in butter until blended. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator.

1 cup white vinegar1 cup cider vinegar3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce1 tablespoon brown sugar1 tablespoon cayenne pepper1 tablespoon hot pepper sauce1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon ground black pepperCombine all ingredients in a jar or bottle with a tight-fitting lid. Refrigerate for two days before using so that the flavors will blend. Shake occasionally. Sauce will keep up to three months in the refrigerator.