KANSAS CITY, Mo. — Hot dogs are standard fare for all-American barbecues, even in the waning days of summer.

Wieners usually wear the hard-working denim overalls of the condiment world — plain red ketchup and yellow mustard squirted from plastic bottles. But they also can be dressed in the condiment equivalent of sophisticated Savile Row business suits — homemade ketchups and mustards bursting with piquant spices and fresh produce.

Americans love their ketchup and mustard; nearly every refrigerator has at least a bottle or two. But if you're open to new tastes, why not riff on the old favorites? How about tarragon mustard? Or blueberry ketchup?

It's a misconception that ketchups must contain tomatoes, said Andrew F. Smith of Brooklyn, author of "Pure Ketchup" (Smithsonian, 2001). In 17th-century Britain, ketchups were single-ingredient condiments made to preserve abundant harvests. The British versions were made with kidney beans, apples, walnuts, mushrooms or whatever else was in season, Smith said. It wasn't until the 1800s that tomato-based ketchups began to evolve in the United States.

Smith, who has cooked his own ketchups, said berry-based ketchups are delicious with poultry and ice cream. He also recommends apple and walnut ketchups on roast beef.

Just don't waste your time trying to duplicate the smooth red ooze of supermarket ketchup, he said. It's nearly impossible to get the same color, consistency or taste because the big bottlers use special tomatoes and cooking techniques.

"If you like the taste of commercial ketchup, that's great. Buy it at the store, because you'll never be able to make Heinz ketchup at home," Smith said.

Mustard, made from the seeds of the mustard plant, traces its roots to the ancient Egyptians. European immigrants brought spicy brown mustards to America in the 1700s, and the R.T. French Co. introduced a milder yellow version in 1904.

Mustard can be made in many flavors besides plain yellow. The Mount Horeb Mustard Museum in Wisconsin proves the point with a collection of 4,800 varieties. In the gift shop, museum visitors can choose from 500 kinds, including bourbon molasses, chipotle and lime, martini and peppadew (to buy, go to mustardmuseum.com).

"People are more willing to try different mustards," said Barry Levenson, who quit his job as an assistant state attorney general to found the museum and now is its curator.

"Look at where American taste buds are going. There's sushi and wasabi; chili heads are getting into chipotle and different peppers. Our taste buds are growing up. "

There's another benefit to do-it-yourself condiments besides taste-bud titillation: They allow health-conscious consumers to control dietary hazards in processed foods.

One tablespoon of ketchup contains 167 milligrams of sodium, 7 percent of the recommended daily allowance and about the same amount as a 1-ounce serving of potato chips.

Home cooks who are concerned about sodium can simply leave the salt out of any ketchup recipe, said Nichole Burnett, family and consumer science agent for the Johnson County, Kan., extension office. She recommends using fresh tomatoes instead of canned tomato products, which are high in sodium.

Ketchup also is about one-third sugar, usually high-fructose corn syrup. The highly concentrated sweetener is metabolized differently from natural sugars and has been blamed for the rise in diabetes and obesity. High-fructose corn syrup also has been linked to a rise in corn allergies, said Rebecca Miller, marketing director for Whole Foods Market in Overland Park, Kan.

"It's a huge trend to get high-fructose corn syrup out of food, even in the conventional marketplace, not just natural foods stores," Miller said. Making your own ketchup from natural sugars such as honey and cane sugar is a way to eliminate one source of high-fructose corn syrup in the diet.

Diabetics or dieters who are trying to reduce all kinds of sugar can substitute granular Splenda in ketchup recipes, said dietitian Shelly Summar.

Ketchup isn't all bad. The condiment is high in vitamin C, beta carotene and lycopene, which has anti-aging properties. When tomatoes are cooked, as in ketchup, they actually contain more lycopene than raw tomatoes.

As for mustard, "There's not much of anything in mustard except flavor," Summar said. It's considered a "free" food for dieters and diabetics, who are encouraged to use mustard in place of other condiments, Burnett said.

Need another reason to make your own condiments? Check out the prices of specialty mustards and ketchups at gourmet grocers.

An 8-ounce bottle of Stonewall Kitchens flavored mustard costs $6.50 at Better Cheddar. At Williams-Sonoma, an 11-ounce bottle of spicy ketchup is $12. The homemade versions are much less expensive, and most of the recipes make enough to share with friends.

2 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds1 tablespoon brown mustard seeds1½ tablespoons mustard powder¼ cup crushed fresh pineapple1 teaspoon fresh thyme leavesSalt, to tastePinch dried Scotch Bonnet chili, or to taste2 teaspoons Demerara sugar (see note)6 tablespoons dark rum (amount will vary depending on the thickness desired)Grind mustard seeds in a mortar and pestle or a spice mill. Place ground mustard seeds in a bowl with enough water to moisten and let sit 10 minutes. Replace soaked seeds in the mortar or the bowl of a food processor and process with mustard powder, pineapple, thyme, salt, chili and sugar. Add rum, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the desired consistency is reached. Spoon mustard into a small jar and cover tightly. The mustard should sit at least 2 weeks before use.Makes about 2/3 cupNote: Demerara is a coarse-textured, golden raw sugar from Africa that is sold at some gourmet grocers and large supermarkets. It is OK to substitute Sugar in the Raw, an unbleached, processed sugar that can be found in many supermarkets.Per 1-tablespoon serving: 44 calories (41 percent from fat), 1 gram total fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 2 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram protein, 1 milligram sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.SOURCE: Food Network

1 cup black or yellow mustard seeds3 tablespoons dry powdered mustard1 cup water½ cup cider vinegar½ cup orange juice½ cup dried apricots, diced small2 tablespoons coriander seeds, crushedSalt and freshly cracked black pepper, to tasteGrind mustard seeds until they are the texture of coarse cornmeal. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add powdered mustard, water, vinegar and orange juice and stir well. Let stand 2 hours, then stir again. Add apricots, coriander seeds and salt and pepper. Cover mustard and refrigerate 2 to 3 weeks.Makes about 2 cups.Per 1-tablespoon serving: 40 calories (41 percent from fat), 2 grams total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 4 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram protein, 1 milligram sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.SOURCE: "Salsas, Sambals, Chutneys & Chowchows" (Morrow) by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby

¼ cup dry powdered mustard¼ cup white wine vinegar1/3 cup dry white wine1 tablespoon sugar½ teaspoon salt3 egg yolks½ teaspoon dry tarragonIn the top of a double boiler, stir together mustard, vinegar, wine, sugar and salt. Let stand, uncovered, 2 hours. Beat egg yolks into mustard mixture.Place over simmering water and cook, stirring with a wire whisk, until mixture thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in tarragon. Pour into small jars and let cool.Cover tightly and refrigerate up to 1 month.Makes about 1 cupSOURCE: Colman's

2 (16-ounce) cans whole cranberry sauce½ (16-ounce) can jellied cranberry sauce (or more, to taste)1 (5-ounce) jar cream-style horseradish1 (2-ounce) can powdered mustard1 tablespoon freshly ground pepperCombine all ingredients in the bowl of a food processor. (If you prefer a slightly sweeter mixture, use more of the jellied cranberry sauce.) Pulse until thoroughly combined and whole cranberries are slightly crushed.The flavors improve over time, so make at least 1 week in advance. Keeps in the refrigerator at least 1 month.Makes about 42 ounces.Per 1-tablespoon serving: 24 calories (8 percent from fat), trace fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 5 grams carbohydrates, trace protein, 9 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.SOURCE: Honeybaked Ham Co.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil1 large garlic clove, crushed1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger1 medium onion, finely chopped2 pints blueberries1 cup fresh tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped2 large purple plums, pitted and chopped¼ cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed1 tablespoon blueberry or raspberry vinegar1 tablespoon fresh lemon juiceZest of 1 lemon, cut into julienne strips1 medium dried chili pepper, crumbled1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 teaspoon ground cardamom1 teaspoon coriander1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon freshly ground peppercorns — white, green, red and blackHeat oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add garlic and ginger and cook over low heat 2 minutes. Add onion and cook until soft and transparent, stirring often. Add blueberries, tomato, plums, brown sugar, vinegar, lemon juice and zest, chili pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, salt and pepper, stirring well.Cook over medium heat until the mixture begins to simmer. Reduce heat and simmer gently 30 minutes.Remove from heat. Let cool slightly, then puree in a food processor or blender. Return the puree to the pan and heat, bringing the mixture to a simmer. Cook until thick, about 1 hour. Pour blueberry ketchup into 2 sterile pint jars or containers. Cover and cool. Store in the refrigerator up to 4 weeks or freeze.Makes about 3 cups.Per 1-tablespoon serving: 20 calories (27 percent from fat), 1 gram total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 4 grams carbohydrates, trace protein, 45 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.SOURCE: about.com

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained1 medium onion, quartered3 garlic cloves, crushed¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar¼ cup cider vinegar2 teaspoons dry mustard1 whole nutmeg, ground¼ teaspoon ground allspice1 teaspoon chili powder½ teaspoon finely grated orange zest1/3 cup fresh orange juice2 tablespoons brewed espresso1 bay leaf1 habanero chiliCoarse salt and freshly ground pepper, to tasteIn a food processor, puree tomatoes with their juice, onion, garlic and sugar. Transfer mixture to a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot. Add vinegar, mustard, nutmeg, allspice, chili powder, orange zest, orange juice, espresso, bay leaf and chili.Bring mixture to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 50 minutes. Remove chili and bay leaf.Puree 1 cup ketchup in the food processor. Return ketchup to pot; stir until well blended. Season with salt and pepper. Let cool completely. Ketchup can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 weeks.Makes 2½ cups.Per 1-tablespoon serving: 16 calories (4 percent from fat), trace total fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 4 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram protein, 44 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.SOURCE: Martha Stewart Living

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice1 (7.25-ounce) jar roasted red peppers, drained1 cup chopped red onion½ cup dry red wine6 tablespoons golden brown sugar2 large dried ancho chilies, seeded and coarsely chopped2 tablespoons tomato paste2 tablespoons red wine vinegar1 tablespoon fennel seeds2 teaspoons chopped garlic1 ½ teaspoons ground cumin1 bay leafSalt and pepper, to tasteCombine tomatoes with juices and all remaining ingredients in heavy large saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until reduced to about 3 cups, about 30 minutes. Discard bay leaf. Working in batches, puree ketchup in blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Chill until cold. Keep refrigerated.Makes about 3 cups.Per 1-tablespoon serving: 14 calories (8 percent from fat), trace total fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 3 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram protein, 26 milligrams sodium, 1 gram Divfiber.SOURCE: Bon Appetit