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In France, pesto is enriched with an umami bomb

This image released by Milk Street shows a recipe for pappardelle with basil, anchovy and toasted breadcrumbs. Milk Street via AP

Never to be outdone by their Italian neighbors, cooks in Provence have their own fragrant version of pesto. We first came across pistou in Marseille as a no-cook basil and garlic sauce stirred into a hearty bean soup. But variations abound, and yes, they also will mix it with pasta.

In this pappardelle recipe from our book “Tuesday Nights Mediterranean,” which features weeknight-friendly meals from the region, we took inspiration from Richard Olney’s classic book “Lulu’s Provençal Table.” The sauce comes together quickly in a food processor and is redolent with the bold flavors of Southern France — peppery basil and ample garlic, of course, but also rich anchovies for an extra hit of umami.

We finish the sauced pasta with toasted chili-spiked breadcrumbs (we prefer panko for its light, crisp texture) for subtle spiciness and a welcome textural contrast to the al dente noodles.

Pappardelle is a wide, flat, ribbon-like noodle, often made with egg and shaped into nests before drying. If it’s not available, tagliatelle is the best substitute, followed by fettuccine.

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