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Emlenton loaded with history, riverfront activities

Denise and Bud Rumbaugh, owners of Emlenton Outfitters and Canoe, take a break in their back yard. They rent bicycles, canoes, kayaks and tubes, as well as shuttling boater up the river.

Although some scenic destinations develop with tourism in mind, others emerge from everyday life.

Local businesses maintain their presence in many picturesque communities, absent of gift shops and gourmet eateries.

For many travelers, spots like this are sometimes preferred.

Offering an unspoiled glimpse of nature, out-of-the-way towns also can reveal the character and culture of local folk.

Emlenton is one such locale.

Although the drive to Emlenton, situated in Venango County near the intersection of Clarion and Butler counties, is a mere 33 miles from Butler, the changing terrain suggests that one has gone much farther from home.After traveling on Route 68 from Butler to Chicora, those bound for Emlenton will cruise through the quaint hamlets of Karns City, Petrolia and Bruin after heading north on Route 268.Near Parker, the road takes on a different look: It begins to parallel the Allegheny River.

Amid pristine stretches of river lie cozy houses and weekend retreats. Four miles from Emlenton is also historic Foxburg, whose recent renovation projects are helping the riverfront town evolve as a tourist destination.Past the Foxburg exit and nearing the bridge that leads to Emlenton, it's hard to miss a larger bridge: The Interstate 80 bridge, once noted as the nation's tallest east of the Mississippi, also spans the river.Nancy Newbury, an Emlenton resident who owns a historic grist mill on Main Street, said the bridge offers a breathtaking perspective for westbound interstate travelers who arrive via Exits 45 and 49."For people who drive the I-80 bridge who have a car tall enough to look over the railing, it is the most spectacularly beautiful little town," Newbury said of her home, unrecognizable the first time she had seen it from the tall bridge."I always had just seen it from the ground. It's just very, very beautiful."Once you're thereNewbury said she and her husband, Paul, arrived in Emlenton six years ago after looking for the best possible rural place to live within commuting distance of Pittsburgh."We drew a circle an hour and half around Pittsburgh (with the idea) we would go where the land was best," she said. With Emlenton the final choice, the Newburys bought a farm, raising feeder calves as one of various projects.In recent months, the Newburys purchased a 130-year-old grist mill on Main Street that houses an antique shop and the Emlenton Cafe."There's still a lot of equipment in there," she said. "We had a historical tour in June. We hope to leave its historical value with whatever we do with it."With a rails-to-trails project concluding in Emlenton last week, Newbury said options might include opening a hostel for those who arrive in town by bike.The trail project, which began 16 years ago, links 31 miles of historic rail towns between Oil City and Emlenton. The Sandy Creek Trail, an intersecting trail five miles south of Franklin, spans an additional 13 miles."The railroad line originally came from Pittsburgh and went to Buffalo," said Jim Holden of Franklin, president of the Allegheny Valley Trails Association.Holden was among about 40 people present last week for the ribbon-cutting ceremony at the trailhead.Although the last six miles of trail was dedicated that day, Holden said the final 2,700 feet remains unpaved. That should occur within two weeks.A milestone that allowed Emlenton to serve as the trail's gateway was a right of way recently granted by the Honeywell Corp., which owns the original site of the Quaker State Oil Refinery."That's been years and years and years in the making," Holden said of the right of way.Honeywell also has verbally offered to grant the 40 acres of riverfront property to the borough of Emlenton.

To brainstorm on ways to enhance tourism in the area, Newbury was among those attending a two-day seminar in Emlenton last week that coincided with the trail dedication.The seminar was called "Life After Oil: A Community Workshop," and included representatives from the Venango County Planning Department; Rivers and Trails Conservation Assistance, a branch of the National Park Service; the Oil Region Alliance; the Pennsylvania Department of Natural Resources; and other agencies and public officials."It was well-attended and a lot of good ideas came out of it," Newbury said.But despite Emlenton's plan for development in the future, visitors to Emlenton find ways to busy themselves today.Designated as part of the national Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, the stretch of the Allegheny River that runs between Franklin and Emlenton lures fishermen as well as boaters.A canoe rental and bait shop offers hourly rates for bicycles, canoes, kayaks and tubes."We do overnight trips from Franklin and overnight trips from Kennerdale," said Denise Rumbaugh, who runs Emlenton Outfitters and Canoe with her husband, Bud."We run canoes from April through October, depending on the weather, of course. We've had people come in snowsuits, believe it or not."In many cases the boaters are shuttled upriver toward Franklin to float back to Emlenton, she said.Although conditions sometimes require the skill of experienced paddlers, Rumbaugh said the river is typically safe for novices, who paddle in view of the bike trail nearby.Holden said the newly dedicated trail was widely used before the dedication — proving suitable for various age groups.Holden's grandchildren, 13-year-old Ryan and 9-year-old Karyn, for instance, biked the trail from Franklin to Emlenton last year — taking needed breaks during the daylong outing.

For those not interested in outdoor adventures, Emlenton also boasts a bed-and-breakfast, two antique shops and the Pumping Jack Museum, which reflects Emlenton's oil heritage.Open on weekends and by appointment, the museum can be found in the Crawford Center, a large, brick building near the center of town.Built in 1928 by wealthy businessman H.J. Crawford, the building originally served as the town's school. Gifted to the community as a memorial to his wife, Crawford also established a trust to offset the structure's maintenance costs.When the Allegheny-Clarion Valley School District formed in the 1950s, the building was deeded to the borough. Although much of the space is currently unused, the building houses the borough offices, the district judge's office, a public auditorium and the museum.In addition to hosting historic walking tours of Emlenton, the museum also contains artifacts and photographs depicting Emlenton's past as a rail and oil town.Dick Carr, Emlenton mayor and president of the Pumping Jack Museum and Historical Association, said the first oil well was drilled in Emlenton in the late 1860s, with a flurry of activity by the 1880s.Refining started in the early 1890s with the Quaker State Oil Refinery. Quaker State was sold in 1985 to Petrowax and then to Allied-Signal, which eventually merged with the Honeywell Corp. It was closed and demolished in 2001."With oil and gas coming in, that made a lot of millionaires," Carr said. "There were more millionaires per capita (in Emlenton) than anywhere in the U.S.," he added.The narrow-gauge Emlenton- Shippenville Railroad also once ran through Emlenton, but shut down in the 1890s.Carr said the larger lines stopped running through Emlenton in the late 1970s, which coincided with the decline of oil activity there."Quaker State built a new, more modern refinery in West Virginia," he said, explaining one reason activity waned.Although Emlenton's population once numbered about 1,500, today's numbers are closer to 750, Carr said.Even though oil has run its course in the town, many residents are hopeful tourism will help to revive the economy.The recent two-day seminar was but one step to a regional planning effort toward managing tourism."We're halfway between New York and Chicago. We're halfway between Pittsburgh and Erie — and Cleveland is about the same distance," Newbury said of the town's proximity to populated spots."We're very excited about this trail coming through," Carr said.

<I>October drives are a great way to see some seasonal color, especially when taking the rural routes. The Eagle is starting a three-part series to showcase several scenic drives.And in case all that driving makes you hungry, we'll include a taste of "local color" inside an area eatery.This week's trip is a drive to Emlenton with a pit stop at the Emlenton Cafe.</I><br></br><br></br>

Ryan Holden, left, and his sister, Karyn of Franklin, enjoy a bike ride along teh scenic, paved trails near Emlenton. The youngsters, grandchildren of Allegheny Valley Trails Association president Jim Holden, biked from Franklin to Emlenton last year. The rails-to-trails project which began 16 years ago, links 31 miles of historic rail towns between Oil City and Emlenton. The Sandy Creek Trail, and intersecting trail five miles south of Franklin, spans an additional 13 miles. The last six miles of the trail were dedicated during a ceremony last week.
The Emlenton Bridge spanning the Allegheny River in Venango County serves as a gateway to Emlenton, which was once a booming oil and railroad town but today has a population of only about 750. The town is attracting tourists and outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy boating on the river and biking on scenic trails.
Friends Kevin Schram, left, and Tom Duguid of Bethel Park off with a third friend in another canoe for a trip back to Emlenton from Kennerdell last weekend.
The interstate 80 bridge across the Allegheny River near Emlenton once had the distinction of being the nation's tallest bridge wast of the Mississippi. Elmenton resident Nancy Newbury says it offers a breathtaking perspective of the quaint riverfront town.

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