Fresh ways to complement your favorite ethnic cuisine

By MCT NEWS SERVICE

April 30, 2007 Last Updated: April 30, 2007 02:39 PM Recipes

Le Francais chef Roland Liccioni waters his herbs and vegetables in his sunroom turned greenhouse in his Mettawa, Illinois home. Fresh herbs can be easy to grow in a container garden or yard. Fresh herbs can also be dried at home for a year-long supply.MCT NEWS SERVICE

A sprinkle of cilantro on tortilla soup. Luscious lemon grass in a Thai stir-fry. A dash of French tarragon in a chicken salad sandwich.

You don't have to be a foodie to know that fresh herbs make any dish special. And growing your own in a kitchen garden makes any meal sweeter, or spicier, or ... well, the rest is really up to you. Adventurous cooks can plant the seeds (literally!) for their favorite cuisine with herbs tailored to the dishes.

"It's such a delight to go snip a few herbs," said Jerry Traunfeld, chef at the renowned Herbfarm restaurant in Washington state and author of "The Herbfarm Kitchen" (Morrow, $34.95). "There are so many different flavors. It's a great way to get a lot of flavor into a dish without a lot of fuss."

The United States has a long history of introducing ethnic cuisines to the melting pot. Among the possessions many immigrants brought to America were herb seeds and plants — maybe sweet basil from Italy or cilantro from Mexico — to flavor their recipes from the homeland.

The growing variety and availability of fresh herbs and seeds from nurseries and plant companies continues the tradition. Traunfeld predicted that a Japanese herb, shiso (also known as Japanese basil), will be the next "in" ingredient. He describes shiso, usually found in good-quality sushi restaurants, as a cross between cumin and cinnamon.

Fortunately, a trip to an exotic land isn't required, just a drive to the local nursery or a few clicks on a Web site for seeds and starter plants. Green thumbs aren't needed either, said Henrietta Yardley, chief grower at Oak Park Conservatory in Oak Park, Ill., which holds its annual herb sale in May.

"If you're successful with marigolds, petunias or geraniums, you can be successful with herbs," Yardley said. "It's not any more demanding.

"People don't realize many things can be grown in the back yard. They can have a fresh supply of rosemary or lavender."

Italian herbs, such as oregano, and Mexican herbs, such as cilantro, tend to be the main attractions for Midwestern herb gardeners, she said. Lemon grass and lemon verbena (with its bold lemony flavor) are two herbs winning over local gardeners and cooks. And herbs that star in Asian and French menus are no more difficult to obtain or grow.

Even chefs accustomed to the best of the best agree nothing beats homegrown flavor from their personal gardens.

"I love having (herbs) at home," said Priscila Satkoff, chef/owner at Salpicon, who grows her three favorites — cilantro, oregano and epazote — on her terrace and indoors, in her home, above the restaurant. Both are in the midst of a big remodel, and Satkoff is looking forward to a spacious roof garden.

Chef Roland Liccioni of Le Francais restaurant in Wheeling, Ill., enjoys gardening on his five-acre property in Mettawa. A sunroom serves as a greenhouse, where he's growing seeds and anticipating planting time.

"Gardening is a passion for me," Liccioni said. "The beauty of it, to watch seeds grow, and water it. It's alive. For me, that's the motivation."

It's also a lot of work, Liccioni added, especially for plants that need some TLC, such as his lemon grass, which he overwinters in 10 to 15 pots in the house. He also grows different varieties of basil: Thai, cinnamon, sweet and purple.

One of Liccioni's favorite ways to use herbs is in a salad. Mixing herbs such as tarragon, mint and chervil with greens "is the best salad you can have," he said.

Food writer Geraldene Holt chronicled the evolution of a community herb garden, now open to the public, in St. Montan, France, in her book, "Diary of a French Herb Garden." With the help of local villagers who donated seeds and cuttings, she restored the medieval walled garden to its former glory.

What makes the garden distinctively French is the choice of plants, principally from the Ardeche region, she said.

"I think one edible herb that is overlooked is lemon verbena, or verveine, which is an attractive plant with a pleasing lemon fragrance," Holt said. "It can be used for a tisane (herbal tea) and for flavoring custards and sweet creams. The tiny delicate flowers can be used as an edible decoration for sorbets and cakes."

Though most herbs are undemanding, they do have different growing requirements (some need full sun, some can handle shade, etc.) Also, you'll get quicker results buying small plants to transplant to garden beds or patio pots than starting from seed; if you're new to the game, consult a nursery employee, gardening Web site or garden-savvy friend.

Cooks who get the hang of it will continue their culinary/garden adventures. Traunfeld is no exception: "I'm going to try to grow fenugreek and Japanese mugwort this year."

Let the kitchen-garden adventures begin.

Kitchen gardens can be tailored to accommodate specific cuisines.Nurseries and garden centers sell a wide variety of herbs, but you may need to further your search for some of these on the Web. Some are best grown as plants, and many are perennials, meaning they will return each year.The following lists include just some of the herbs used in each cuisine.FrenchChervil: A member of the parsley family with anise-tasting leaves. Use for garnish in salads and soups.Bay: Dark, shiny aromatic leaves; part of a classic bouquet garni.Sorrel: Arrow-shaped leaves with sour, tangy taste.Lavender: Small gray leaves with fragrant, edible purple flowers.Lemon verbena: Strong citrus flavor without bitterness.Lovage: Dark green leaves with celery and parsley flavor. Used for soups, stews and teas.Thyme: Strong bushy aromatic leaves, good for soups and stews, meat and fish.French tarragon: Smooth, narrow, dark green leaves with a bittersweet taste of anise.MexicanCilantro: Pungent, citrusy leaves, musky roots and sweet, aromatic seeds.Margarita mint: A big, bold lime-scented mint that makes great garnish for margaritas.Mexican oregano: Similar to Greek oregano, but stronger and less sweet.Mexican mint marigold: Similar to French tarragon; also called Texas tarragon. Strong anise scent.Epazote: Strongly scented herb for seasoning fish, mushrooms, corn and black beans.AsianLemon grass: Long, thin, gray-green leaves and a woody scallionlike base with tangy, lemony taste.Asian flat-leaf chives: Flat green leaves with a strong garlic flavor.Mitsuba: A Japanese wildparsley that’s easy to grow.Rau ram: Vietnamese cilantro, similar to the popular variety of cilantro. Can be grown throughout the season.Sansho: Peppery seeds used to float in soups.Shiso: Red and green leaf varieties with distinctive taste, used mostly in Japanese cuisine, especially sushi. Grows like basil.Thai basil: Small green leaves with spicy, anise taste.Mint: Spearmint is the most common variety, often used in Asian dishes to balance hot, spicy dishes.ItalianOregano, Greek: Small green leaves with pungent, spicy flavor. Also referred to as “pizza” oregano.Fennel: Highly aromatic herb with tiny yellow flowers and subtle licorice taste.Marjoram: Slight mint and citrus flavor.Parsley, flat-leaf: Dark green, glossy leaves, strong peppery flavor. More flavorful than curly parsley and better for cooking.Rosemary: Highly fragrant herb with needlelike leaves.Sage: Narrow, pale gray leaves with mild bitter taste.Basil: Along with sweet basil, Genovese and Neapolitan are popular varieties.

Preparation time: 40 minutesCooking time: 1 hour, 30 minutesResting time: 15 minutesThis recipe, adapted from "Jamie's Italy," by Jamie Oliver, offers specific instruction for the butcher to prepare the leg of lamb. The instructions are butcher's jargon, but he writes: "It means the top half of the leg has the bone removed, leaving just the ankle bone, allowing you to stuff it." Pancetta is an Italian bacon sold in Italian and specialty markets.1 bulb garlic, 2 cloves peeled, remaining cloves unpeeled3 cups mixed fresh herb leaves, such as mint, parsley, oregano, thyme6 thin slices pancetta or bacon3 fillets anchovy3 slices rustic bread, torn into 1-inch pieces1 cup each: pine nuts, pitted green olivesFreshly ground pepper3 roasting potatoes, peeled, halved6 sprigs fresh rosemary3 bay leaves3 tablespoons olive oil1 teaspoon salt1 leg (4Z\x pounds) lamb, h-bone and thighbone, tunnel-boned and removed2 cups red wineHeat oven to 400 degrees. Place the 2 peeled garlic cloves and the 3 cups of mixed herbs in a food processor; pulse until combined. Add the pancetta and anchovies; pulse. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl; set aside. Process the bread pieces into crumbs in the processor; transfer to the bowl. Add the pine nuts, olives and pepper to taste. Loosely toss ingredients together; set aside.Toss potatoes with the remaining garlic, rosemary sprigs, bay leaves, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, ½ teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste in a roasting pan; place the lamb on top of the potato mixture. Rub the lamb with the remaining 1 tablespoon of the olive oil; season with remaining ½ teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste. Stuff the lamb with the reserved bread crumb and herb mixture.Roast 30 minutes; baste with about ¼ cup of wine. Roast until meat is no longer pink, about 1 hour, basting with wine every 15 minutes. Remove from oven; let lamb rest 15 minutes before slicing. Discard garlic cloves or squeeze out of their skins to use as a spread, if desired. Serve lamb with potatoes.Makes 6 servings.Nutrition information per serving: 901 calories, 58 percent of calories from fat, 58 g fat, 16 g saturated fat, 181 mg cholesterol, 32 g carbohydrates, 62 g protein, 1,291 mg sodium, 4 g fiber

Preparation time: 35 minutesCooking time: 10 minutesThis cool, refreshing mixed seafood salad is adapted from "Dancing Shrimp," by Kasma Loha-Unchit. Mix and match different seafoods and fish, if you like.2 stalks lemon grass, trimmed, top one-third of stalks discarded, remaining stalks thinly sliced1 piece (1-inch long) fresh galangal or fresh ginger, peeled, cut into fine slivers4 shallots, halved lengthwise, sliced thinly crosswise½ cup fresh sprigs of each: cilantro, mint¾ pound fresh squid, skinned, tentacles left whole, body cut into 1-inch rings, optional2/3 pound fresh medium shrimp, shelled, deveined, butterflied2/3 pound sea scallops, optional½ pound sea bass fillet, cut into 1-inch chunksHot-and-sour chili-lime dressing, recipe follows3 to 4 large lettuce leavesPlace lemon grass, galangal, shallots, cilantro and mint in a large bowl; toss. Set aside.Heat water in a large saucepan to a boil; blanch the seafood, one variety at a time, until just cooked through: 20-30 seconds for the squid; 30-40 seconds for shrimp and scallops; 1-2 minutes for sea bass. Drain well.Add the warm seafood to the herb mixture; add the dressing. Toss to distribute; transfer to a lettuce-lined serving platter.Makes 8 servings.Nutrition information per serving: 152 calories, 12 percent of calories from fat, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 178 mg cholesterol, 8 g carbohydrates, 25 g protein, 686 mg sodium, 1 g fiber

Preparation time: 8 minutes10 Fresh Thai chilies, chopped6 to 8 cloves garlic, choppedJuice of 2 limes3 tablespoons fish sauce2 teaspoons sugarPound the chilies and garlic into a paste in a mortar with a pestle; transfer to a medium bowl. Whisk in the lime juice, fish sauce and sugar.Makes 8 servings.Nutrition information per serving: 17 calories, 6 percent of calories from fat, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 4 g carbohydrates, 1 g protein, 522 mg sodium, 1 g fiber

Preparation time: 35 minutesCooking time: 1 hour, 20 minutesCooling time: 30 minutesThis traditional recipe, adapted from "Cuisines of Hidden Mexico," by Bruce Kraig and Dudley Nieto, is often served by vendors in Mexican plazas. Serve with corn tortillas.1 fryer chicken2 sprigs each: oregano, basil, thyme1 bay leaf1½ teaspoons coarse saltFreshly ground pepper3 tablespoons canola oil1 medium onion, thinly sliced3 large tomatoes, chopped1 tablespoon sugar3 each, peeled, cooked, cut into 1½-inch pieces: carrots, potatoes2 teaspoons fresh oregano leaves½ head Romaine lettuce, trimmed, shreddedPlace the chicken, herb sprigs and bay leaf, 1 teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste in a Dutch oven with enough water to cover. Heat to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce to a simmer. Cook until cooked through, about 1 hour. Remove chicken from pan; set aside to cool, about 30 minutes. Cut the chicken into 8 pieces; set aside. Strain broth; set aside 1 cup. Reserve remaining broth for another use.Meanwhile, for the salsa, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium; add the tomatoes. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture thickens into a sauce, about 15 minutes. Stir in the sugar, remaining ½ teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste. Add the reserved 1 cup chicken broth. Raise heat to medium-high; heat to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, to desired thickness.Heat remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken pieces; brown, in batches if necessary, turning as needed, about 5 minutes. Place chicken on a large platter; surround with the carrots and potatoes. Pour the salsa over the chicken; sprinkle with oregano leaves. Top with shredded lettuce.Makes 4 servings.Nutrition information per serving: 694 calories, 41 percent of calories from fat, 32 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 156 mg cholesterol, 46 g carbohydrates, 56 g protein, 508 mg sodium, 7 g fiber

Preparation time: 15 minutesChilling time: 1 hourBocconcini are small nuggets of mozzarella sold in Italian and specialty markets. This recipe is adapted from "Food and Memories of Abruzzo: Italy's Pastoral Land," by Anna Teresa Callen.1 ball (16 ounces) fresh mozzarella cheese, or 1 pound bocconcini6 fresh oregano leaves4 fresh mint leaves3 sprigs fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley2 fillets anchovy½ cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheeseLeaves from 1 sprig thymeFreshly ground pepper or ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes2 tablespoons small capers in brine, drainedCut the mozzarella into 12 slices (cut slices in half, if large). Transfer to a serving dish, slightly overlapping the edges; set aside.Place remaining ingredients, except capers, in a food processor; puree. Pour the sauce over the cheese. Sprinkle with capers. Refrigerate, covered, at least 1 hour. Let come to room temperature before serving.Makes 6 servings.Nutrition information per serving: 202 calories, 42 percent of calories from fat, 9 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 14 mg cholesterol, 3 g carbohydrates, 26 g protein, 651 mg sodium, 3 g fiber