Pears can be used in breads, chips, salsa, and pies.

Pears are one of the signature fruits of autumn, and a nice change of pace from summer's delicate fruits and berries.

Though there are thousands of varieties, Bartletts are the best known. They're recognized by their shapely bottoms and long necks.

They arrive rock-hard at the grocery store. Most pears ripen off the tree, and Bartletts are no exception.

They're picked in August and September when mature but still firm and available through December-January, according to the USA Pears Web site, www.usapears.com.

Given time, Bartletts turn from green to yellow and their flesh from crunchy and tart to creamy and super sweet and juicy — perfect for eating out of hand. If the neck near the stem yields when pressed, it means the pear is on its way to ripening.

Firm, ripe pears are what's needed for these recipes. Softer pears will turn mealy as they cook.

Pears can be used in place of apples in any recipe. The advantage of using pears is that they let other flavors shine. That means you can really taste the touch of cardamom and apricot jam in the pie.

Pears also have more fiber than apples: 5 grams to an apple's 3 grams.

A medium-size pear, though, has more calories: 98 calories versus an apple's 81.

<B>1 cup white vinegar8 cups coarsely chopped cored, peeled pears3 red bell peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped3 green bell peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped1 cup granulated sugar2 tablespoons salt2 teaspoons dry mustard1 teaspoon turmeric½ teaspoon ground allspice½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepperPrepare canner, jars and lids. </B>In a large steel saucepan, combine vinegar and pears.Add red and green peppers, sugar, salt, mustard, turmeric, allspice and black pepper.Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. Reduce heat and boil gently, stirring frequently, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.Ladle hot salsa into hot jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Wipe rim. Center lid on jar.Screw band down until resistance met, then increase to finger-tip tight. Place jars in canner, ensuring they are completely covered with water.Bring to a boil and process 8-ounce and pint jars for 20 minutes. Remove canner lids. Wait five minutes to remove jars.Cool and store the salsa.From “Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving,” by Judi Kingry and Lauren Devine.

<B>¾ cup sugar¼ teaspoon cream of tartar1 cup water2 underripe pears </B>Preheat oven to 225 degrees.In a medium size saucepan, combine the sugar, water and cream of tartar and bring to a boil.Lower the heat and continue to simmer while slicing the pears. Slice the pears 1/16-inch thick using a mandoline.Immediately immerse the pear slices in the boiling sugar. When the syrup has resumed a rapid boil, remove the slices with a slotted spoon to a plate.When cool enough to handle, place slices on a pan lined with parchment paper. Make sure slices don't touch or overlap.Bake 40 to 50 minutes, rotating pans halfway through baking. Once chips take on a dry appearance, remove one from the oven and allow to cool on the counter.If it's crispy once it's cooled, it's ready.The chips will keep for two weeks, or longer if refrigerated.From “The Sweet Life: Desserts From Chantrelle,” by Kate Zuckerman

<B>4 tablespoons apricot preserves5 cups firm ripe Bartlett pears (about 6 or 7)1/3 cup granulated sugar1/3 cup brown sugar¼ teaspoon each nutmeg and cardamom2½ to 3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca3 tablespoons butterUnbaked pastry for 2-crust pie </B>Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line pie plate with half the pastry.Mix pie ingredients, dot filling with butter and top with remaining crust. Vent the top of the pie.Bake 40 to 50 minutes. Check for doneness by sticking a fork into the fruit and checking for tenderness.Pears will soften but remain firm when baked into a pie.The juices in this pie will not bubble up as in a peach or cherry pie, so less tapioca will result in a juicer filling.