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How to start plants from seeds indoors

Grow lights promote strong stems and leaves when starting plants from seeds.

Browsing the catalogs or websites of the prominent seed suppliers can become overwhelming with the variety of vegetable and flower seeds available to the home gardener.

Some gardeners may be dissuaded from starting plants from seeds. They may think seed starting is too cumbersome or risky. They may feel safer purchasing plants for direct planting into the garden.

Nurseries and garden centers are not geared to provide a wide variety of any one plant and their selection can be limited to the best past sellers.

Maybe it's time to think about starting your plants from seed and selecting varieties that have unique features that interest you. Such features might be taste, color, aroma, plant size, fruit size, disease resistance and growing conditions.

Examples of seeds that can be started indoors during April are tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and herbs.

The growing season in Butler County spans May through early September. Approximately six to 10 weeks are needed for most plants to go from germination through transplant-ready.

June through August are critical months for the plant to mature, flower and fruit, so mid-March to early April can be an optimum time for indoor seed starting.

Seed germination requires a germinating media, control of light, proper moisture and constant temperatures. A soilless propagation mix enhances the germination rate and reduces the amount of time to sprout.

Mixes are usually comprised of very fine particles of peat moss, vermiculite and perlite balanced to retain moisture and enhance aeration. These mixes are free of disease organisms and should be considered during planting.

The seed starting endeavor begins with gathering supplies, including containers, potting mix and seeds.In lieu of peat pots or prepared peat pods, any clean and sterilized glass, metal or plastic container can be used to germinate seeds. Sterilize the containers with a mix of nine parts water and one part bleach.Purchase propagation mix exclusive for seed germination. Moisten the mix with rain water or spring water, as they are free of chlorine or other chemicals. Place an adequate amount of soil mix into a bucket and add enough water to almost saturate the mix.Fill the sterilized potting containers with 1.5 to 2 inches of the propagation mix and lightly press it down. Select the seeds for planting, and follow the packet directions. Seeds with an 85 percent germination tested on 8/19 seeds would suggest starting with 15 percent more seeds than plants wanted in the garden.Place the desired number of seeds on the mix, making sure the seeds are separated. Tiny seeds require light to germinate, while larger-sized seeds should be covered with the soil mix.If darkness is preferred, place 1/8 inch of soil mix over the seeds and tamp down lightly. There is no need to add additional fertilizer, because the potting mix is pre-fertilized, and seeds contain ample nutrients to germinate. Label the containers with the plant name, date and other useful information.Once the containers are filled and labeled, place them on a heating mat specifically for seed starting. The mat provides a constant controlled source of heat. Installing overhead florescent lighting aids in successful germination.Cover the containers with a clear lid for moisture control and germination inspection. Most seeds germinate around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Check the seed packet for the recommended germination temperature.

Condensation inside the container lid can indicate too much moisture. Remove the lid for several hours to dry out the potting soil. Check on the containers regularly for proper moisture, heat and light.The first sign of germination is when the cotyledons (first set of seed leaves) emerge from the soil. The seed casing may remain on a cotyledon.The seedlings are ready for transplant when the true leaves appear, which occurs in about seven to 10 days. Transplant the seedlings into individual pots, trays with multiple cells or smaller three to six cell packs.Use the same soilless mix and fill the pots or packs. Use a dial rod or pencil to poke a hole in the mix. Carefully remove a group of seedlings from the germination container and separate them, avoiding damage to the root system, leaves and stems.Pick up the seedling by its leaves and gently insert the stem and root into the hole. Press in the soil and adjust the seedling to make it vertical.The seedlings are now ready to grow in height and produce more leaves. Control the moisture and light to assure growth. A mix of natural sunlight and florescent light enhances plant growth and trains the stems to grow vertically.Use a timer to regulate the fluorescent light. The seedlings should receive 18 hours of light and six hours of darkness. In four weeks, the seedlings will have grown enough to be transplanted into larger pots. Use the same potting process and continue to monitor lighting, temperature and moisture.Harden off fully grown seedlings before planting directly into the garden. A gradual introduction to outdoor weather assures that the seedlings are ready to experience the range of spring weather. To harden off seedlings, place them on a shaded patio or deck during the day and bring indoors during the night. After the last frost date has passed, the seedlings can be transplanted into the garden.Use this process to successfully nurture seeds from germination to garden ready. Planting seed varieties that may not be found in nurseries and garden centers to compare with traditional varieties can be educational and lend to new discoveries. The vegetables and flowers produced from these seedlings can give a sense of accomplishment and an urge to try additional varieties next year.Penn State Extension offers guidance on seed starting (https://extension.psu.edu/seed-starting-demystified). The Extension offers online education as well. Check the extension website for more information.If you have questions about seed starting, call the Master Gardener Garden Hotline at 724-287-4761, Ext. 7, or email the Master Gardeners at butlermg@psu.edu.Garden Hotline LIVE starts April 14. Our expert Master Gardeners and Extension Educators from across the state will be answering some of your questions during our new program, “Garden Hotline LIVE.” Submit questions for the live show here: https://pennstate.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_6fbKDzHz5bNgknjFor more information about how to watch Garden Hotline LIVE, visit our statewide Penn State Extension Master Gardener group page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/696217890434068/Lew Palka has been a Penn State Master Gardener since 2018.

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Carefully poke a hole into the potting mixture to safety transplant tender seedlings.
Success with seed starting begins with the proper supplies.

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