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Fly away to azure blue waters without leaving the U.S.

Former Eagle community editor Paula Grubbs wades in a natural pool created by one of the many waterfalls in the El Yunque National Forest, which is about an hour's drive south of San Juan, Puerto Rico. El Yunque is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. park system. Paula Grubbs/Submitted photo
Former Eagle editor takes it easy in Puerto Rico

People looking to experience a culture and landscape without the need for a passport should seriously consider a trip to the tropical paradise that is Puerto Rico.

San Juan, the largest city on the island and the capital of the self-governed, unincorporated U.S. territory, overlooks the sparkling blue Atlantic Ocean near the northeast corner of the squarish Caribbean island.

Beautiful, safe, clean and colorful San Juan offers more than enough in the way of touring, dining, beaching, shopping and nightlife for those staying for a week or more.

For a weeklong girls’ trip, my daughter, neighbor, high school friend and I chose a spotless and well-appointed Airbnb called Atlantis Bayview Retreat between Condado and Old San Juan.

The studio apartment’s perfect location allowed us to walk to nearby Escambron Beach, just a few blocks away. Or, as is the case throughout balmy San Juan, you can throw your beach bag over your shoulder and embrace your inner 10-year-old by renting one of the stand-up electric scooters sitting throughout the city for easy and fun transport.

Simply download an app, “boop” the QR code on your scooter, and off you go. Many major streets even have scooter lanes where cars are not permitted.

Motorists in San Juan are extremely accommodating to scooters, and the police even stopped traffic when he saw my friend, Mary, and I were waiting to cross the street.

Mary, who sped off on her scooter like a pro after a 10-second lesson from me, said scooting around our erstwhile neighborhood was a highlight of her trip.

After Mary and I arrived at the nearby beach, we simply put our scooters up on the kickstand, clicked “end trip” on the app, and headed under the hanging coconuts on the white sand of beautiful Escambron Beach.

Strolling vendors sell tall cups of delicious fruit or coconuts they just harvested from the swaying palms just a few feet behind our towels.

Beach chairs and umbrellas are available to rent at Escambron, where a huge, semicircular breakwater allows beachgoers to bob around, swim or snorkel, unfettered by pounding waves.

As is the case everywhere in San Juan, local music is always being proudly played on someone’s boom box, and the movement-inducing Latin beats only enhance the jubilant, tropical atmosphere.

After a few hours soaking up the sun and watching the pompanos swim around our feet in the warm, crystal-clear water, we decided to head to Old San Juan, which is only a few minutes away.

Those interested in history can tour two fortresses or lay their hands on the old city walls and buildings from the 16th century.

Jutting over the Atlantic on a rocky outcropping is Castillo San Felipe Del Morro (Promontory Castle of Saint Philip), which was commissioned by King Charles I of Spain in 1539.

While “Del Morro” protected the old city from seafaring interlopers of yore, Castillo San Cristobal guarded the land entrance to the walled city. Construction on San Cristobel began in 1634 and ended in 1790.

Visitors can stroll the well-preserved and manicured grounds or purchase an affordable and fascinating tour of either historic castillo.

Old San Juan’s narrow, cobblestone streets, buildings painted in every imaginable festive color, shops, bars and restaurants provide an enchanting walking experience.

We ended our night at a “secret bar” my daughter found on the internet as we strolled Old San Juan. After entering a shop, we opened an unobtrusive door, climbed two flights of narrow wooden stairs, and found ourselves in an enchanting small bar on a rooftop that afforded views of the twinkling lights and merry atmosphere of Old San Juan below.

Exploring outside of the city

After two days of enjoying the upbeat vibe at Escambron and Old San Juan, our party hopped in a rental car and headed south to visit a unique natural feature in Puerto Rico: the rainforest.

Just driving through El Yunque National Forest is beyond amazing, but looking at the tangle of growth on the misty mountain through the windows of our SUV wasn't enough for this group of ladies. El Yunque is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Park Service.

We pulled over along the rainforest’s rustic road to view one of El Yunque’s many scenic waterfalls. The clear water splashing down the rocks among the tropical growth is a mesmerizing sight.

Clad in flip-flops and covers over our bathing suits from a stop at a beach and lunch in Luquillo along the way, we decided we would climb the steep, rugged path alongside the waterfall, where young people splashed in the three or four pools formed by the waterfall as it tumbled down the mountainside. We were unable to resist dipping into the rock-lined pools ourselves, as best we could.

After making our way back down the somewhat muddy and rocky path, we drove ever upward toward an old stone tower visitors can climb to get a bird’s-eye view of the rainforest.

Normally cloudy and drizzly, we lucked out in a rare sunny day in El Yunque. The long spiral staircase inside the tower was well worth the effort, as the top afforded a stunning overlook at the emerald green rainforest canopy.

We then checked into an adorable Airbnb in the town of Fajardo, where we enjoyed a beautiful pool with a waterfall and hot tub.

But we could not languish too long, as we had booked a bioluminescent kayak tour that evening.

The initial experience is a bit jarring, as the biological process of the mangrove leaves dropping into the water in the channel that must be traversed to access Bioluminescence Bay produces a pungent sulfur smell, and the mosquitoes are mostly repelled by the half-can of bug spray with which we each doused ourselves.

After paddling the tandem kayaks for about a mile down the aromatic canal, we emerged in a huge bay at twilight. We soon noticed a whitish swirl around our paddles, which was bioluminescence, or light emitted by the chemical reaction of tiny marine organisms to the saltwater.

When night officially fell, the bioluminescence was much more obvious, and a huge tarp placed over our group’s 12 or 15 side-by-side kayaks produced the magic.

We splashed the bay water on our clothing and skin to marvel over the cobalt blue sparkles left behind. “I feel like a wizard,” said my daughter, Jackie, as she swished her hand through the water to watch the otherworldly cloud of bioluminescence follow her fingers.

The next morning, we headed for the ferry port in the town of Ceeba to embark on a three-day side trip to the sleepy, seductive island of Culebra.

Culebra, which has just over 1,000 residents, is one of two islands visited by those vacationing in Puerto Rico. The other, Vieques, is favored by those who prefer their beautiful beaches with a more vibrant nightlife scene.

Hector the Protector welcomes visitors arriving at port in Culebra, Puerto Rico. Hector was built in five days by artist Thomas Dambo in 2014 during an art festival on the small island. He was destroyed in 2017 by Hurricane Maria, but Dambo immediately built the current version of the whimsical Hector that delights disembarking sailors and ferry passengers today. Paula Grubbs/Submitted photo

After about an hour on the ferry, passengers are thrilled to get a glance at Hector the Protector.

Hector is a gigantic art installment that depicts a man holding a lantern to welcome visitors and intimidate those who would harm the prized flora and fauna on the island.

Originally, artist Thomas Dambo had Hector positioned to appear that he was throwing rocks at those entering Culebra with ill intentions. When Hector, who was built in five days during a 2014 art festival using pallets from a local junkyard, was demolished by Hurricane Maria in 2017, Dambo rebuilt him in his current, less intimidating pose.

Culebra’s shining jewel, besides the welcoming residents, charming small town, and plethora of wild chickens, peacocks and horses, is undoubtedly stunning Flamenco Beach.

The $2 admission to Flamenco will buy you a visit to a beach that is consistently ranked among the world's best, often placing in the Top 10.

Pristine white sand, striated shades of blue water from cornflower to cerulean, lined by swaying palms, Flamenco is a picture-postcard paradise.

Flamenco’s placid waves and warm, clear water make entering the water a pleasure, and a coral reef about 60 feet from the beach is a great natural resource for novice to expert snorkelers. We all felt we were floating inside an aquarium as we watched the colorful fish dart about or pick at the plants on the coral.

We also visited beautiful and natural Zoni Beach, where sea turtles lay their eggs each year.

One unexpected delight in Culebra was the appearance of two small, black terrier dogs at our Airbnb. We quickly named them Toto and Tito, and the pair would cry when we left to go to the beach or a restaurant. Once we returned to our quarters, they came skittering down the street and joined us for cocktails and laughter on the veranda each night. I choose to believe it was our company, and not the beef sticks meant to sustain us on the beach, that drew them to our outdoor furniture.

Rising just outside the historic walls of Old San Juan, El Capitolio houses the island’s bicameral Legislative Assembly. The American Territory’s Senate and House of Representatives meet in the pristine white marble neoclassical building. Paula Grubbs/Submitted photo
Dining in paradise

Much like Primanti Brothers sandwiches in Pittsburgh or boiled peanuts in Atlanta, Puerto Rico has a signature dish that is delicious, yet hard to describe.

Mofongo, a garlicky plantain- or yucca-based mash served under meat or vegetables and a savory sauce, is a hearty concoction that only the most ambitious diners can finish.

In fact, visitors are no doubt surprised by the delicious-but-heavy, pork-dominated local fare of Puerto Rico, but Mexican, Chinese, American and many other cuisines are prevalent in San Juan, Culebra and Vieques.

For obvious reasons, a variety of fresh fish is available on every menu. On Culebra, staff members at Mamacita’s and Dinghy Dock scrape leftover fish from diner’s plates into the adjacent water, where sleepy groups of tarpon flash to life as they fight for a morsel.

While basking in the sun on Flamenco, our party enjoyed acai bowls that boasted sweet frozen acai topped with fresh banana, kiwi, mango, pineapple, strawberries and chunks of crunchy coconut, topped with a sprinkling of fresh grated coconut.

Puerto Rico also is a coffee destination, where the tantalizing aroma of strong, fresh brew wafts from many shops and coffee carts. A coffee stand on the corner of a huge park near our place in San Juan was busy morning, noon and night.

An easy climb up Yokahu Tower results in a stunning view of the canopy of El Yunque National Forest, which is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. Park System. El Yunque is about an hour's drive from San Juan, Puerto Rico. Paula Grubbs/Submitted photo
Nightlife is for all in Puerto Rico

One unique stop in the Santurce section of San Juan is a two-block square area known as La Placita. During the day, fresh fruits and vegetables are sold at a farmers market in a huge, airy building in the venue’s center.

But at night, especially on the weekends, La Placita’s streets are blocked off and the night heats up with fun.

Several bars, dance clubs and restaurants, paired with Latin music pulsating down each street, create the atmosphere of a party.

Spontaneous salsa dancing regularly breaks out, and a vendor with dozens of colorful parrots instructed me to extend my arms.

When I did so, he placed four huge birds on each arm, one on top of my head, and three smaller birds on a “La Placita” sign I held in front of me. The avian barrage was the highlight of my visit.

Old San Juan also boasts lively nightlife for adults of all ages, who can feel safe among the kind and smiling local residents.

Everyone who enjoys beautiful, white-sand beaches, a clean and safe environment, a colorful aesthetic, history, and swaying palm trees should make an effort to visit Puerto Rico and enjoy all the island has to offer.

Yokahu Tower in the El Yunque National Forest allows visitors to climb its spiral staircase for free. The result is a bird’s-eye view of the rainforest canopy below. Paula Grubbs/Submitted photo

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