The recipe for Southern Cheese Straws appears in the cookbook “Spiced.”

These delicate, crumbly, cheesy, buttery spiced crackers are popular in the South but should be required snacking everywhere.

And while they’re mostly about the cheese, the crackers would have one-note richness without the added pizazz of some back-up spices: sweet, peppery paprika and cayenne.

These give the cracker interest, back up the extra-sharp cheddar’s bold flavor, and add pleasant heat. To make a version that mimicked cheese straws’ signature decorative stripes without using a cookie press, we rolled out the dough into a square and made lines with the tines of a fork before cutting the dough into strips and baking.

Using a food processor to buzz the grated cheese, chilled butter, flour, and baking powder together resulted in crackers with a short, extra-tender texture. A variation pairs nutty Parmesan and black pepper for a slightly more refined straw with the perfect salt and pepper balance.