The French crêpe treatment of powdered sugar and lemon lets the lush-but-light nature of the world's best waffles shine through. Honey with squeezes of lime, which you'll find pancakes topped with in Thailand, is another sweet-and-tart way to go.

Waffles are one of the reasons it's good to be alive. And I stand behind the assertion that the recipe here produces the world's best waffles.

The batter must be made 12 to 24 hours in advance, which requires thinking, “Do I want the world's best waffles tomorrow?” (Answer: YES.) If it seems a bit inconvenient, wait until the next morning, when your forethought means all you have to do is plug in the waffle maker, take the batter out of the fridge, stir, and waffles.

The batter must be made ahead of time because it contains yeast. It gives these waffles an almost ethereal lightness — with a honeycomb of air bubbles on the inside — and an extra-toasty, almost champagney taste.

The batter also contains a full stick of butter, providing unparalleled richness and crispness. Yes, that's a lot of butter, but hey, you probably won't make them that often, considering you have to remember that you're going to want them. Probably.

Plenty of variations may be found online, dating back to 1896, from “The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book” by Fannie Farmer. Hers, with puritanical restraint, calls for just one tablespoon of melted butter. Some people like it because it's less rich.

Some contemporary iterations of the recipe advocate for a last-minute addition of a quarter-teaspoon of baking soda, purportedly to make them airier and crispier. I've been so extremely happy with the non-baking-soda version's level of airy-crispness, I've never bothered with it, even though it'd be so easy to try.

My own innovations are, admittedly, not earth-shattering. Reasoning that it might make the waffles even lighter, I started sifting the flour (I also just find using a sifter really satisfying). The addition of bourbon may fall into the imperceptible/ritualistic category, but if you can add bourbon to something in life, why not?

A Belgian waffle maker, thicker than the old-school round ones, arguably allows these waffles to achieve their fullest, fluffiest beauty, though you really can't go wrong.

When it comes to toppings, the French crêpe treatment of powdered sugar and lemon makes a respectfully restrained match for the world's best waffles, letting their lush-but-light nature shine through. Honey with squeezes of lime is another sweet-and-tart way to centerpiece the waffles' richness. The sticky honey contrasts with their airy texture.

Your favorite fruit would be grand, or just jam or a hazelnut-cocoa spread.

Of course, it's hard to beat the classic maple syrup (with a little more butter perhaps). Bacon crumbled over the top is never a bad idea.

Warning: If you make these waffles for houseguests, you may have a difficult time getting them to leave. Give them the recipe and, in my experience, they'll thank you every time you see them, forever.

NOTE: Batter must be made 12 to 24 hours in advance.Makes about four 9-inch square waffles.1¾ cups whole milk8 tablespoons butter (I like salted), cut into 8 pieces2 cups all-purpose flour1 tablespoon sugar1 teaspoon salt1½ teaspoons instant yeast2 large eggs1 teaspoon vanilla extractDash of bourbon (optional, but do!)Heat milk and butter in a small saucepan over low heat until butter is melted, about 5 minutes. Let mixture cool until warm to the touch.Meanwhile, sift flour into a large bowl, then whisk in sugar, salt and instant yeast to combine. (Use a half-gallon or larger pitcher instead of a bowl, and later you can just pour the batter right onto the waffle iron, no ladle required.) Add the warm milk/butter mixture gradually, whisking until the batter is smooth.In a small bowl, whisk eggs, vanilla and bourbon until combined. Add egg mixture to the batter and whisk until well incorporated. Scrape down sides of bowl with rubber spatula, cover bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate at least 12 hours, up to 24 hours.Heat waffle iron. Get the waffle batter out of the refrigerator; it’ll be puffed up to about twice its original volume. Stir it to deflate/recombine.Make waffles and enjoy their greatness! They’re best eaten while nice and hot, so distribute them as they’re done rather than standing on ceremony. Suggested toppings: butter and maple syrup, powdered sugar and lemon juice, honey and lime juice, your favorite fruit or jam, nothing at all.