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Using whole grains to gussy up that old three-bean salad

This classic salad is given tons of new interest with the addition of spelt, canned hearts of palm and a generous helping of fresh herbs.

In certain parts of the country, a good three-bean salad is a popular anchor to a potluck or picnic. It's sturdy, crowd-pleasing, portable — and frankly inexpensive.

There have been countless variations of three-bean salads made with nothing more complex than the beans and bottled vinaigrette. But this time, I was after something with a fresher feel.

Here, spelt and canned hearts of palm add tons of interest. Fresh herbs provide brightness.

Spelt, an ancient whole grain, fell out of favor in the early 1900s, but it's becoming popular again. It's quite chewy and nutty, with large, fat rice-shaped grains. Spelt is a member of the wheat family, so it's not suitable for people who have celiac disease.

It's soaked for several hours before cooking to reduce the cooking time.

When you are cooking the spelt for this recipe, consider making extra. It's nice to have later in the week for tossing into pilafs, soups and stews. Soak 1 cup of spelt grains in enough water to cover overnight. To cook, drain the spelt. Bring 3 cups of water or broth to a simmer in a medium pot over medium-high heat, add the drained spelt and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the spelt is tender.

The dressing for this bean salad is quite thick — close to a pesto consistency — but it distributes itself perfectly over the ingredients. Change up the herbs as you like, and feel free to add some other fresh vegetables as well, such as diced zucchini, tomatoes or avocado. If so, add those shortly before serving. With that exception, you can make this salad up to three days ahead and store it, covered, in the refrigerator.Start to finish: 15 minutesServings: 814-ounce can hearts of palm, drained and rinsed, cut into 1/2-inch pieces15½-ounce can kidney beans, drained and rinsed15½-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed15½-ounce can black beans, drained and rinsed1 cup cooked, cooled spelt (see article or follow package directions)¼ cup chopped fresh parsley2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil2 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme¼ cup rice vinegar2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil½ cup finely chopped red onionKosher salt and ground black pepperIn a large serving bowl, mix together the hearts of palm, kidney beans, chickpeas, black beans and cooked spelt.In a small bowl, mix together the parsley, basil, thyme, vinegar, olive oil and onion. Season with salt and pepper.Pour the dressing over the bean salad and toss to coat evenly. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.

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