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The food decade that roared

The 1920s roared.

The economy buzzed along mightily, at least until the last three months of the decade. Young people danced the Charleston to the sounds of hot jazz. Speakeasies became popular as some people looked for ways to circumvent Prohibition, and the movies learned to talk.

In the world of food, things were looking up. Scientists were busy researching vitamins, and consumers were eating accordingly: more fruits, more vegetables, more milk. And technology was catching up to those trends, too. Farms were producing more than ever, and the process of canning foods that had been perfected during World War I now made produce accessible across the country in all seasons.

And when Clarence Birdseye invented a way to freeze foods in 1922, people could eat foods from all over that still tasted fresh.

On the other hand, the Baby Ruth bar and Wonder Bread were both invented in 1920, Popsicles came out in 1924, Hostess cakes and Kool-Aid were products of 1927 and Velveeta cheese was introduced in 1928. So Americans were getting healthier, but at the same time they weren't.

“Mrs. Allen on Cooking, Menus, Service: 2,500 Recipes” documents the cooking style early in the decade. This book from 1924 is just one of many authored by Ida Cogswell Bailey.

I made Baked Rice Milanaise from the cookbook. It's just rice mixed with green pepper and onion — but then you add grated cheese to it and then you put more cheese on top when you bake it. Top it with tomato sauce and slices of a hard-cooked egg, and you have a dish unmistakably from the 1920s.

It tastes even better than it sounds. The rice goes perfectly with the onion and green pepper, and the cheese brings it all together. The tomato sauce is just the icing on the cake, in that it goes on top and adds a huge kick of flavor at the end. The slices of egg, to be honest, do not add significantly to the flavor, but they do look pretty.

Yield: 4 servings1 cup uncooked rice2/3 cup grated cheese, such as cheddar, divided¼ teaspoon paprika1 tablespoon olive oil1 small green bell pepper, minced2 tablespoons minced onion1 cup tomato sauce2 hard-cooked eggsPreheat oven to 375 degrees. Cook rice according to directions on package. While still hot, stir in ½ cup of the cheese and the paprika.Meanwhile, heat oil in a small pot over medium heat. Add green pepper and onion and sauté until cooked and tender, about 3 to 5 minutes.Add the pepper and onions to the rice mixture and transfer to a casserole or baking dish. Top with the remaining 3 tablespoons of cheese.Bake 15 minutes. Pour tomato sauce on top or serve on the side, and place slices of egg on top.

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