The first time I ate spicy, red chorizo sausage was at a Cuban friend's house many years ago. I loved the small, crisp slices of chorizo nestled among the shrimp, chicken and rice in his paella.

I couldn't wait to duplicate this dish, but I didn't know what chorizo to buy. Dried or fresh? Spanish or Mexican?

Chorizo is a sausage found in the cuisines of Spain, Portugal, Mexico, Puerto Rico and throughout South America. All chorizos have garlic, chiles or smoked paprika as seasonings that add flavor and a red tint. Most are made with pork and usually in one of two categories, Spanish or Mexican. In Spain, the sausage is often cured and smoked and can be sliced and eaten without cooking, while in Mexico chorizo is usually a fresh sausage that must be cooked before eating.

Fresh Mexican chorizo is highly seasoned with garlic, chili powder and ancho chiles. It comes in either red or green versions depending on the chiles used and it is sold in fat links. It can be cooked either in its casing or removed from the casing.

Dried Spanish chorizo is milder in flavor and comes in both sweet and spicy varieties. It typically features smoked paprika and usually is sold, unrefrigerated, either smoked or unsmoked in hard long or short thin links.

Chorizo adds background flavor to soups, stews, or rice dishes. Just a little bit of chorizo can lift a dish from ordinary to exceptional.

Surprisingly, chorizo is perhaps best with fish and shellfish. A crusty piece of bread is perfect for sopping up the smoky, rich broth. Yield: 2 servings. (This recipe can easily be doubled.)1½ tablespoons minced onion1 tablespoon olive oil½ cup roughly chopped cured chorizo¼ cup canned whole Roma tomatoes, crushed2 tablespoons Spanish sofrito (either homemade or bottled)1 teaspoon chopped, oil-preserved red chile3 pounds clams, scrubbed¼ cup white wine1 cup fish stock or bottled clam juice1 tablespoon butter½ teaspoon lemon juice2 tablespoon chopped mixed parsley, oregano and cilantro1 whole scallion, slicedSalt and pepperIn a large sauté pan, sweat the onions in olive oil over medium heat for about a minute, and then add the chorizo.When the sausage is heated through and its paprika-tinted fat is beginning to liquefy and escape, add the tomatoes, sofrito and chile. Sauté a minute longer.Add the clams and immediately deglaze the pan with wine. Once that has reduced by about a third, add the fish stock. Bring to a simmer and then cover the pot.When after 5 to 7 minutes the clams have popped open, stir the pot to check for any that have not done so and discard them.Now add butter, lemon juice, half the chopped herbs and half the scallion, and season lightly. Stir again. Taste and correct seasonings if necessary.Transfer the clams to a large, warm serving bowl, pour the sauce over the top, and sprinkle with the remaining chopped herbs and scallion.