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Flanking Maneuvers

Try flank, sirloin or skirt steak for a change

You’ve grilled your way through this seemingly short summer. Now Labor Day — the unofficial end to the outdoor cooking season — has past.

So what’s it going to be — another boring round of burgers and chicken?

Instead, how about some sizzling-hot beef cuts that often take a backseat to T-bones and rib-eyes?

Sirloin, flank and skirt steaks are what Randy Emert, executive chef at Henry Ford West Bloomfield Hospital in Michigan, recently recommended to participants in a grilling class at Trevarrow Inc., a distributor of residential kitchen equipment, in Auburn Hills, Mich.

Emert said people shy away from these cuts because they tend to be tougher, a problem that can be addressed with marinades. And he pointed out that these steaks are less expensive than others and often leaner.

“It’s all about knowing the proper marinade for each one, not overcooking them and slicing them properly,” Emert said.

He recommends oil-based marinades for sirloin and acid-based marinades (made with wine or vinegar) for flank and skirt steaks.

It’s important to wipe off the marinade before grilling, Emert said. “If you don’t wipe it off, the meat will stick to the grill and any herbs will burn,” he said.

At the class, Emert grilled whole cuts, and sliced them into individual pieces.

The pieces can be eaten right away or become starting points for recipes like fajitas, steak tacos or one large, yummy steak sandwich that can be cut into portions to feed a crowd.

Grilled sirloin chilled properly and sliced cold is “a great addition to a cold meat plate for sandwiches,” Emert said.

Make sure the grill is nice and hot when you cook the steaks.

“Once you put the steak on, you need to hear it sizzle,” Emert said.

No sizzle? Pull the steak off quickly because the grill isn’t hot enough. Once it is, put the steaks back on and grill one side, then turn them over and finish the cooking over low or indirect heat.

And don’t put the cover down.

“The purpose of grilling is to get a nice crust on the steak,” Emert said.

Grill them to medium-rare or no more than medium.

“When the blood or juices from the steak come up to the surface, it’s a good sign that the steak is medium-rare,” Emert said. Or judge by touch. The steak shouldn’t feel too soft and squishy.

And last, always slice against the grain — or, as Emert put it, “thin to win,” no more than Z\v inch thick.

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