QUESTION: I would like to try to grill fish whole. I've heard it is pretty easy, but I have never done it before and I'm a little nervous. Do you have a foolproof method or recipe for cooking whole fish?

ANSWER: It's funny what makes some people nervous. I get nervous every time I fly; it's something about not having any control over the situation. But, I'm still here (contrary to some people's wishes). The good news for you is that when you grill fish you are in control and it truly is very easy. So just like everyone tells me on a plane — relax.Some people may wonder why bother to cook a whole fish. We do it for the same reason that we cook a whole chicken or any other piece of meat on the bone; the final product is much juicier and flavorful.Before we light the grill, let's make sure we are choosing the best types of fish for cooking whole. Flat, firm textured fish like black bass, striped bass, snapper, pompano, trout, branzino and sea bream work extremely well. I like to serve one fish per guest, and I try to buy fish that weigh between one to one and a half pounds. The fish needs to be fresh with bright red gills and no fishy smell.Your fish needs to be prepped by having it gutted, scaled, and the gills and fins removed. I would suggest that you have your fishmonger do this for you, but to be honest with you I haven't seen too many fishmongers around lately. The 17-year-old behind the counter at your local market doesn't quite hit the mark. It really isn't hard to prep fish, however, and you can get four fish ready for cooking in about 20 minutes. Right before cooking, give them another good rinse to get rid of any blood that you see. Dry the fish well with paper towels inside and out.Whether using a gas or charcoal grill, make sure you heat the grill grates long enough in advance to burn off any leftover residue and that they are very clean. This will help prevent the fish from sticking. Then just follow these steps and you will have nerves of steel while you cook your fish.1. After starting your grill with a very hot flame, turn it down or burn it down so that it is medium-hot to medium.2. With a sharp knife, make three to four horizontal cuts into each side of your fish, about a half to one inch deep. This will help prevent the fish from curling up so it will cook more evenly. It also makes it easier to tell when the fish is done.3. Oil your grill grates extremely well.4. Season the fish inside the cavity and then generously oil the outside of the fish.5. Place the fish over the heat and then do not touch it for about five minutes. On average, a fish will grill for about 10 minutes for each inch of thickness. A 1-pound fish, after making your cuts into it, will be about an inch thick.6. After five minutes, check the skin on the grates and if it appears nice and crispy, carefully lift the fish using two metal spatulas and gently roll or flip it over. If for some reason it sticks and/or falls apart, it's no big deal. Put it on a sheet pan and finish it in a 375-degree oven. It will still taste great.7. To check to see if it is done, poke around the slits you made in the side of the fish. The flesh should be opaque. You can also check by inserting a knife between the backbone and the top fillet; the flesh should easily separate from the bone — if not, cook a few minutes longer.I hope you are nice and calm when you try the following recipe. I'm on my way to the airport — I'll be thinking of you while I'm on the plane.

4 fresh whole fish about 1 to 1 ½ pounds each, scaled, gills and fins removedOil for coating the grill grates 2 lemons, sliced 4 fresh rosemary branchesKosher salt and freshly ground black pepperLemon wedgesExtra virgin olive oil to serveHeat the grill until it is very hot. Turn down to medium-high or medium heat. Moisten a towel with some oil and rub the grill down to prevent the fish from sticking. Salt and pepper the cavity of each fish, and place in each the rosemary branches and slices of lemon. Oil the outer skin well. With a sharp knife, score the fish horizontally on each side, slicing it from a half inch to an inch thick. Grill the fish about 5 to 6 minutes per side for each inch of thickness. The fish should remain moist but flake easily once it is done. Serve whole, or run a knife or fork along the spine and gently peel back the top layer of skin. Using a large fork remove the fish into segments onto plates. Once the first side is complete, gently lift off the skeleton, and remove the remaining fish onto plates. Drizzle the plated fish with the extra virgin olive oil, and serve with slices of lemon.