QUESTION: How do you keep lobster tails as tender as they are at a restaurant? No matter whether I boil or broil them, invariably the skin ends up tough. I don't think I'm overcooking them — usually about 15 minutes for a 10- to 12-ounce tail. What's the secret?

ANSWER: I'm sure that with what you are paying for 10- to 12-ounce lobster tails, you want Elvis himself to be serenading you with "Love me tender, love me sweet."Believe it or not, the key really may be in what you are paying. It's not that any lobster should be chewy and tough, but just as with anything else, you get what you pay for.Ninety-five percent of the lobster tails that we buy frozen at the store don't come from Maine lobster but from a spiny, clawless type of lobster of which there are about 50 species around the world.Obviously, with that many varieties, locations and harvesting techniques, the quality of these lobsters varies greatly.The easiest way to sort them out is by putting them into two groups: those that come from cold water and those that come from warm water. Cold-water lobsters mainly come from New Zealand, Australia and South Africa; warm-water lobsters hail mostly from Central and South America and Florida.The quality difference between cold- and warm-water lobsters is definitely reflected in the price. Cold-water lobster tails are much more expensive, but they guarantee great-tasting, tender, sweet meat.Not all warm-water lobster tails are bad, but if you are planning to serve your tails whole with just a little drawn butter, you are risking disappointment if you go for the budget lobster.Of course, if you are feeding a crowd and want to make lobster quesadillas, lobster quiche or even lobster salad, warm-water tails are perfectly fine.Here are a few other random thoughts about serving lobster tails:• Make sure you thaw the tails properly — in the refrigerator for at least 8-10 hours or overnight.• Another way to cook the tails, besides broiling or boiling, is to steam them. Pour two to three inches of water into a pot and add about a tablespoon of kosher salt. Bring the water to a boil.Insert a skewer down the length of each tail to prevent curling. Place the tails on a steaming rack inside the pan and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Steam for about 10 minutes for 10- to 12-ounce tails and serve immediately with drawn butter.———

QUESTION: I saw a beautiful picture of Salmon Wellington, and I would like to serve it to a group of eight to 10 people. Unfortunately there was no recipe with the picture. Can you help? Thanks, I enjoy your recipes very much.ANSWER: I guess just seating everyone at the table and showing them a beautifully framed picture of Salmon Wellington won't do the trick.By the way, Beef Wellington is named in honor of the Duke of Wellington winning the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. He probably would have considered Salmon Wellington some kind of French culinary conspiracy.Actually, it makes a beautiful presentation for a dinner party. Here are two versions. Enjoy!