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Throw a flip-flop party

SANTA ANA, Calif. — Come hungry and wear flip-flops. Sounds like a great summer dinner party theme, doesn't it?

The sandals shout casual comfort, a signal to guests to lighten up and enjoy a gathering that's as much fun as the dress code.

I can remember when hosting a dinner party meant days of work. Fussy food, fine china and candles. A pressed tablecloth and starched napkins. A parade of shiny sterling silverware. Crystal goblets.

But entertaining has become a lot more casual. I've had a lot of fun at my daughters' dinner parties and marveled at how relaxed and informal everything is. From the food to the attire, there's a laid-back atmosphere.

No one, especially the hostess, seems worried about anything except good-but-easy-to-make food and laughter.

Most of the action is in the back yard. The tablecloth is pretty, but may be paper. The glasses are pretty, but may be plastic. The dogs romp on the grass while well-orchestrated playlists set an upbeat musical backdrop.

So, I say, it's on with the thongs (oops, that's what we used to call flip-flops before the word became the name of an item of intimate apparel). So on with the zories (yes, we used to call them that, too, as well as "go-aheads"). And onto a menu that focuses on flip-flop "casualization."

OK, I am a cook and a food writer, so every course I've planned is more or less homemade (even if that means just seeding fruit and pouring booze on it, or augmenting a bowl of olives with a tangerine-perked vinaigrette).

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil4 large cloves garlic, chopped1½ teaspoons finely grated lemon peel (zest, colored portion only); divided use¾ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes1⅓ cups Sauvignon Blanc or other non-oaky white wine2½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice3 canned anchovy fillets, minced2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley; divided useCoarse salt, such as kosher salt4 dozen small clams, such as littleneck, scrubbed12 ounces dried linguineFreshly ground black pepper to tasteCoarse salt to tasteGarnish: lemon wedges and tiny tomatoesHeat olive oil in medium, deep saucepan over medium-low heat. Add garlic, ¾ teaspoon lemon peel, and dried red pepper flakes; cook until garlic softens, about 3 minutes. Add wine and increase heat to medium high.Boil until mixture reduces to about 1 cup, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat and add lemon juice, anchovies, 1 tablespoon parsley and remaining ¾ teaspoon lemon peel. Season with coarse salt.The sauce can me made ahead to this point 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature. Rewarm before using.Prepare barbecue (high heat). Arrange clams on grill rack in single layer. Cover grill. Cook 5 minutes. Uncover and cook without turning until clams open. Transfer to rimmed baking sheet as they open, retaining juices in shells if possible, about 5 minutes longer (discard any clams that do NOT open).Meanwhile, cook pasta in large pot of salted water until just tender but still firm to bite. Drain pasta and toss with a generous tablespoon of sauce; season generously with freshly-ground black pepper. Divide between bowls (4 if main course, 6 to 8 small bowls if first course). Arrange clams with juices on pasta. Stir sauce and spoon sauce on top. Sprinkle remaining parsley on top. Sprinkle with coarse salt. Garnish with lemon wedges and tiny tomatoes.Yield: 4 main-course servings or 6 to 8 first-course servings; can be doubled.Nutritional information (per first course serving): Calories 214 (32 percent from fat), protein 14.8 g, carbohydrates 20.1 g, fat 7.7 g (saturated 4.5 g), cholesterol 67mg, sodium 578 mg, fiber 1.9 gSource: adapted from Bon Appetit magazine

2 small ripe melons, such as golden king or charentais or gaya¾ to 1 cup Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise; see cook's notes Cook's notes: Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise is a sweet wine from a village in southern Rhone (France); it's sold at wine shops and Cost Plus World Variety Markets. If desired, you can use another sweet wine, such as Austrian Beerenauslese or Eiswein (ice wine) or Bonny Doon's Muscat Vin de Glaciere.Cut each melon in half. Cut a very shallow slice off bottom so melon will sit on plate without wobbling. Scoop out and discard seeds and membranes.Place about 3 tablespoons Muscat de Beaumes de Venise in hollow of each melon. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate several hours. Serve with spoon and, if desired, assorted cookies. If you're not plating the melon, but serving it "portable style" fill it only half full with wine.Yield: 4 servings.Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 132 (less than 3 percent from fat), protein 3.2 g, carbohydrates 28.9 g, fat 0.5 g (saturated 0.1 g), cholesterol 0 mg, sodium 78 mg, fiber 2.8g

These delicious cocktails can become mocktails by simply omitting the gin and adding more ginger ale.5 cups diced watermelon6 ounces gin8 tablespoons fresh lime juiceAbout 1 1/3 cups ginger aleGarnish: lime wedges or slicesPuree watermelon in blender (this will take some coaxing and patience — stop machine as needed and stir contents).Place puree in 4 large, ice-filled glasses. To each glass, add 1½ ounces gin, 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice and about ⅓ cup ginger ale. Stir.Garnish with lime wedges or slices.Yield: 4 cocktails.Nutritional information (per cocktail with gin): Calories 232 (less than 3 percent from fat), protein 1.2 g, carbohydrates 56.7 g, fat 0.1 g (saturated 0 g), cholesterol 0 mg, sodium 47 mg, fiber 0.8 gSource: adapted from Eating Well magazine

The easiest approach for grilled lamb chops is to season the meat with your favorite prepared rub; then grill chops until nicely caramelized outside and juicy inside, about 2 to 4 minutes on each side (grilling times vary depending on fire and desired degree of doneness). If you're feeling more ambitious, here's a more complicated, but still easy-to-prepare recipe from Food Network star Bobby Flay. The yogurt sauce can be prepared several hours in advance and refrigerated.For Sauce:1 cup thick yogurt; see cook's notes2 teaspoons finely grated orange peel (zest, colored portion only)¼ cup fresh orange juice4 large cloves garlic, minced2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leavesSalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteFor Chops:12 (4-ounce) lamb chops, rib chops preferred, bones "frenched" (fat and sinew removed from top of bones to make them easy to hold as finger food)Olive oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste1 orange, halvedGarnish: Chopped fresh mint leavesCook's notes: To make thick yogurt, line strainer with paper towel. Place whole milk yogurt on paper towel (1¼ cups yogurt yields about 1 cup thick yogurt). Set over bowl to catch liquid that drains off. Refrigerate about 3 to 4 hours.Combine all sauce ingredients; cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.Heat grill to high. Brush chops with olive oil on both sides; season with salt and pepper. Grill until lightly charred and crusty, about 3 minutes. Turn chops and reduce heat to medium (or move to a cooler spot on grill). Grill until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes more.At same time, grill orange halves cut side down until heated through, 3 to 5 minutes.Serve chops immediately, garnishing each plate with yogurt sauce and orange quarter (for squeezing over meat) and fresh mint.Yield: 4 servings; can be doubled to serve 8.Nutritional information (per lamb chop): Calories 720 (60 percent from fat), protein 39 g, carbohydrates 32 g, fat 48 g (saturated 19.0 g), cholesterol 125 mg, sodium 489 mg, fiber 0.4 gSource: "Boy Meets Grill" by Bobby Flay with Julia Moskin (Scribner, $30)

Come hungry and wear flip-flops. For a great summer dinner try roasted clam linguine.MCT NEWS SERVICE

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