Once roasted and peeled bell peppers make an elegant and flavorful soup.

I love the sweet, smoky flavor, silky texture and bright color of roasted peppers. You can buy them jarred, but homemade is much tastier. Once roasted, they keep well, so I prepare a dozen at a time and freeze the extra in one-cup containers.

Here's what you need to know:

Picking peppersRed bell peppers have the sweetest, most intense flavor; yellow and orange ones are somewhat milder. All three are good roasted. Green bell peppers are unripe (if left on the vine, they turn red) and better in other preparations.Choose firm, crisp peppers with no soft spots or wrinkles. Refrigerate in a loosely closed plastic bag. When ready to roast, wash, dry and remove stickers.

On a grillPlace peppers on the grill grid over a medium fire about 4 inches from the heat, turning several times, until blistered and charred all over, 10 to 15 minutes.

Under the broilerCut peppers in half and place, cut side down, on a foil-lined baking sheet. Place about 4 inches from the heated broiler and roast until done as described above.

Over a gas burnerHold the pepper over the flame with tongs or a meat fork (use an oven mitt if it's metal) and turn until charred on all sides. (Best when just one pepper is needed.)

PeelingPlace hot peppers in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let steam 20 minutes. Use your fingers or a table knife to remove skin (it's OK if charred bits remain). Don't rinse; you'll wash away flavor.

UsingToss with pasta, scatter on pizza or omelets, chop over grilled fish or chicken breast or puree for a dip or soup. My favorite use: Dress roasted peppers with olive oil, garlic and herbs and serve as an appetizer with fresh mozzarella or goat cheese.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil2 garlic cloves, minced1 medium onion, finely chopped1 teaspoon ground cumin¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper4 large red bell peppers (2¼ pounds), roasted, peeled and seeded4 cups chicken or vegetable broth (homemade or low-sodium canned)½ cup fresh orange juice¼ teaspoon grated orange zestSalt and freshly ground pepper2 tablespoons chopped cilantroIn a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-low heat. Cook the garlic, onion, cumin and crushed red pepper, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens, about 10 minutes. Add the roasted peppers and any accumulated juices along with the broth.Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to low and simmer 20 minutes. Add the orange juice and zest. Working in batches, puree the soup in a blender. Return it to the pan, season to taste with salt and pepper, and reheat if necessary. Ladle into bowls, garnishing with cilantro. (Or chill and serve cold.)Makes 6 servings.Per serving: 135 calories (50 percent from fat), 8 g fat (1 g saturated, 5.5 g monounsaturated), 0 cholesterol, 5 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 650 mg sodium.

Roasted red pepper soup leaves the palate with a sweet and smoky flavor.