Eateries tout hearty meals
Despite its modest population of less than 1,000, Saltsburg can satisfy anyone in search of a hearty meal.
As well as good food and a family approach to business, two eateries worth noting also can boast ambience among their attributes:
• Newcomers to Marchitelli's Kiski Valley Inn, on Harvat Road near the bridge into Saltsburg, are likely surprised when stepping inside.
An array of items on walls and other surfaces mix for a theme of Mardi Gras meets Christmas meets Hollywood movie.
"Or being in Paris," said Stacy Marchitelli, second-generation owner.
With a site that's off the beaten path, Marchitelli recalls questioning her now-retired parents in 1993 before they purchased the business.
"My mother's words to this day still haunt me," she said. "'Stacy, you let me decorate this place and people will remember they were here — because of the food and the way it was decorated.'
"You have to come for a solid year to notice everything," she added.
Amid the upside-down Christmas tree, movie posters and various baubles and lights, department store mannequins are randomly placed in a wedding gown and hockey jersey.
To signify football season, clothing on the mannequin nearest the cash register currently wears Marchitelli's high school letterman's jacket. That mannequin's clothing is changed according to season, she said.
In addition to a colorful atmosphere, the restaurant offers a solid menu and daily specials. Although menu prices range between $8.95 and $19.95, lunch specials typically run closer to $5 or $6.
Marchitelli said favorites include chicken Parmesan over pasta, Delmonico steak and the Reuben sandwich, made with a brown sugar- based sauerkraut slow-baked on site.
At $2.95 a cup or $9.95 a bowl, the KVI's lobster bisque is a favorite on the weekends, when Marchitelli said customers also come to hear live piano music or socialize in the bar.
"What we're trying to do is make it unique and exciting — to entertain you while you dine with us," she said.
"I consider it fun dining, not fine dining."
The restaurant is open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 4 to 8 p.m. Sundays.
• In keeping with a family theme, P.J. Brown's restaurant on Point Street also has been passed through generations.Opened in 1944 as Brown's restaurant, the eatery is currently owned by Ed Peffer, the original owner's grandson.Coincidentally, Peffer's mother — and a second-generation owner — was a sibling of Marchitelli's grandfather.Although P.J. Brown's is praised by its regulars as an upscale dining destination, Peffer stipulated there is no dress code in the nostalgic, casual venue."People get the wrong idea, especially people that don't know us so well," he said."They think we're white linen. A lot of people out of this area ask about the dress code: Whatever makes you comfortable makes us comfortable. We want you to feel comfortable and have a good time."Owned by Peffer and his wife, Joyce — who primarily runs a guest house on site — the building contains photographs, posters and a bar and booths from days gone by. The restaurant seats about 60.Peffer characterizes the food as a mix of Northern Italian and American with French influences. It has also been described as Continental, he said."It's basically hearty food. You're going to be filled up when you leave."As well as veal chops, filet mignon, New York strips and various chicken dishes, Peffer's specials regularly include fish purchased fresh in Pittsburgh's Strip District."Our fish really gets a lot of feedback here. We're really sort of known for our salmon," he said, adding filet mignon, veal and a British whiskey chicken with cream, leeks and mushrooms to the list of favorites."This week I'm going to be running a fluke: an excellent mild whitefish," he said.In addition to what Peffer describes as a moderately priced wine list, the chef said in recent years he has diversified by enlarging the menu to include smaller portions and more traditional entrees like gnocchi and spaghetti with meatballs."We have my mother's pizza on there, and we have sandwiches, too," he added.Thursday nights include a two-entree package for $25 created from the evening's list of four specials.The primary goal, he said is to feed people well and to create a feeling of nostalgia and authenticity."It's nice and warm in there; you feel like sitting and spending a lot of time," he said."Basically, come in and spend an hour or two. We don't rush anybody out the door."P.J. Brown's opens at 4:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays.
