Rhubarb makes a beautiful statement in the garden. With its pink-purple stalks, rhubarb is one of spring's first crops.

It appears about the same time as strawberries. But because rhubarb is a bit tart and has to be cooked, it's often relegated to the back of the recipe box. Rhubarb is not as pretty as the strawberry, and its stepsister role usually is to accompany the red berry in a pie or cobbler.

Backyard gardeners usually have a plant or two that will produce enough rhubarb for several pies, but Roland McIntosh, owner of Paw Paw Plantation in Powell County, Ky., has about 200 plants and sells the stalks at Lexington's farmers' market.

"I have a good crop. They're doing well right now," McIntosh said. Because rhubarb is usually pest- and disease-resistant, he doesn't have to use chemicals on the plants.

Supermarkets usually stock only a small amount of rhubarb because there's not a huge demand for it. Nationally, about 1,000 acres in the entire country are devoted to rhubarb production, according to The Organic Cook's Bible. Most rhubarb is grown in northern states, including Washington and Oregon.

McIntosh would grow rhubarb even if he didn't have customers asking for it. "I like it," he said.

Cooking rhubarb requires your undivided attention. "You can't simply put it in a pan and let it simmer," McIntosh said.

Here are his instructions for cooking rhubarb:

• After it's washed, cut it into small pieces, about 2- to 3-inch segments.

• Place the rhubarb in a pan, then fill the pan with water until it just covers the rhubarb.

• Cook until the rhubarb falls apart, about 10 minutes.

• Add sugar. If you add the sugar at the beginning, the mixture is likely to scorch, McIntosh said.

Once the rhubarb is cooked, it can be used as a sauce, pie filling, side dish, or it can be packed into freezer containers and frozen.

Although rhubarb is considered a spring crop, McIntosh keeps producing it right up to the first frost. "You have to keep the blooms pulled. And you pick from the outside of the plant and no large amount from any one plant," he said.

Because rhubarb has a sweet-tart taste like fruit, it's usually classed as fruit, although botanically it's a vegetable. Its taste goes well with low-acid fruits, such as plums and strawberries. Good flavor partners are ginger, orange, cinnamon and brown sugar.

Mark Bittman, author of "How to Cook Everything," said rhubarb's sour side provides contrast in sweet meat dishes using pork and chicken.

Rhubarb tips

• Choose stalks that are firm and crisp with glossy skin that is free of blemishes. Check both ends to make sure they aren't dried out.

• Wrap, unwashed, in plastic, and refrigerate three to seven days.

• Blanched rhubarb freezes wonderfully, so there's no need to buy it off-season. Blanch spring-grown stems for about one to two minutes in boiling water, chill them in ice water, then cut them into 1-inch long pieces and freeze on baking sheets. When they're frozen, transfer to freezer bags and store.

Peel and then eat

Rhubarb stalks, especially thick ones, can be covered with a stringy outside layer that should be removed before cooking. Make sure to cut away and discard any leaves, which are toxic.

Trim both ends of the stalk, and then partially slice a thin disk from the bottom of the stalk, being careful not to cut all the way through. Gently pull the partially attached disk away from the stalk, pull back the outer peel, and discard.

Make a second cut partway through the bottom of the stalk in the reverse direction. Pull back the peel on the outer side of the stalk and discard.

The rhubarb is now ready to be sliced or chopped as needed.

4 cups fresh trimmed rhubarb, cut into Z\x-inch chunks2 cups sliced strawberries1 cup sugar2 tablespoons all-purpose flour1 tablespoon butter, melted1 teaspoon minced orange peel or lemon peel1 teaspoon ground cinnamonTopping:1 cup dark-brown sugar, packed1/2 cup all-purpose flour6 tablespoons butter, cut into 6 pieces2/3 cup coarsely chopped pecansPreheat oven to 375 degrees. In large bowl, combine rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, flour, melted butter, orange peel or lemon peel, and cinnamon. Toss to combine, and place in a 9-inch square pan. Bake in preheated oven 10 minutes.For topping, combine brown sugar, flour and butter in food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse to combine until crumbly. Stir in pecans. Sprinkle over rhubarb mixture.Bake until browned and bubbly, about 25 to 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.Makes six servings.

2 to 3 cups rhubarb, cut into 1-inch pieces1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger1/4 cup honey1/4 cup waterCombine the rhubarb, ginger and honey with water in a medium stainless-steel saucepan. Cover, bring just to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer.Cook until the rhubarb falls apart, about 10 minutes, adding a little more water if necessary. Serve chilled.Makes three to four servings.

1 ½ pounds rhubarb1 cup sugar½ teaspoon ground gingerPinch of saltTrim rhubarb, and cut into Z\c-inch dice. Toss in a large baking dish with sugar, ginger and salt. Roast in a 350-degree oven for 30 minutes. Let cool completely.

1/2 pound rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch-thick diagonal slicesGrated zest and juice of 1/2 orangeGrated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon2 tablespoons light-brown sugar1/4 vanilla bean, split open and seeds scraped1 whole clove1 tablespoon slivered blanched almonds1 teaspoon confectioners' sugar, plus extra for dusting the sandwiches4 slices raisin-nut bread4 tablespoons thick Greek yogurt or thickened regular yogurt (see note)Combine the rhubarb and the orange and lemon zest and juice in a bowl. Add brown sugar, vanilla bean seeds and pod, and clove. Stir well, cover and set aside to marinate for at least two hours, or overnight.Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Give the rhubarb mixture a stir, and transfer it to a shallow ovenproof dish. Cover it with foil, and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the rhubarb is tender when pierced with a knife. Remove the dish from the oven and let the rhubarb cool. The rhubarb will keep for two days, covered, in the refrigerator.Preheat the broiler. Place the almonds on a baking sheet and sift the confectioners' sugar evenly over them. Place almonds under the broiler until golden brown, two to three minutes. Set the almonds aside.Just before serving, toast the bread on both sides under the broiler. Place a slice of toast on each plate, and spoon a dollop of yogurt onto each piece of toast. Arrange the rhubarb over the top. Sprinkle with toasted almonds. Dust the open sandwich with confectioners' sugar and serve while the toast is warm.Makes four servings.Note: To thicken yogurt: Fit a coffee filter or a piece of muslin inside a strainer, and set it over a bowl. Place the yogurt in the filter, and set the bowl in the refrigerator for as little as 30 minutes or as long as overnight. The longer you strain it, the thicker the yogurt will be.

2 1/2 cups rhubarb, roughly chopped1 1/2cups orange marmalade2 cups sliced strawberries1/4 cup sugarPlace rhubarb and orange marmalade in heavy-bottomed, medium non-reactive saucepan. Simmer on medium-low until rhubarb softens, about 10 minutes.Mash with potato masher. Stir in strawberries and sugar; bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Boil one minute and remove from heat. Cool and serve on pancakes, waffles or toast.Makes three cups.

1 cup water1 cup sugar4 cups rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch piecesIn medium, nonreactive saucepan, combine water and sugar; bring to a boil on high heat. Add rhubarb; reduce heat to medium. Simmer, stirring frequently, for four to six minutes. Cool.If desired, stir in one cup fresh raspberries. Spoon over cheesecake, pound cake, ice cream or rice pudding.Makes four cups.