No need to fish for recipe
For the next couple of weeks, I'm going to do some spring cleaning. You newspaper readers know what you like, and sometimes you just want a recipe for your favorite food. (It was that humongous stack of letters with recipe requests that tipped me off.) Even though this is a column that answers questions about food, and not necessarily recipe requests, today I am feeding your voracious appetite for recipes. I'm sure my wife has different ideas about the spring cleaning she'd like me to do, but we all have to start somewhere! If I make it to the bottom of the stack of letters, I might get around to cleaning the table.
QUESTION: Do you have a recipe for bouillabaisse, and can I put any kind of seafood in it? ANSWER: You can use any fish in bouillabaisse, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't want to come to your house to eat it. If the fish isn't firm enough, you will have little pieces of fish floating around in your stock. But, the cook who has the biggest whisk makes the big decisions. I've found the best fish to be monkfish, halibut and cod.I could tell you a fish story about how this dish got its start, but to be honest bouillabaisse has very simple origins. The preparation was created by the fishermen of Marseilles, who were required to add some fish to the pot on the docks so that those loading the boats had something to eat. Most of the sailors would add the least expensive fish to the stock, like monkfish, so they could keep the good catch to sell. As sailors traveled, they re-created many variations of this dockside meal around the world. Gumbo, the Louisiana version, was concocted by French settlers who were short on the regular ingredients. In San Francisco, cioppino is the version the Italian (and some would say Portuguese) fishermen made famous on the Bay. I'm going to give you a traditional bouillabaisse recipe, but if you set sail and are feeling adventurous, add a few ingredients of your choice and create your own variation.
QUESTION: I really like cooking fish, and enjoy salmon. Do you have any salmon recipes you can give me?ANSWER: Well, today is your lucky day. You can make the bouillabaisse recipe above, and the salmon recipe below! If you like salmon, you can substitute it for the meats in your other recipes, such as those for chicken or pork chops. As long as the recipe directs you to pan-sear whatever meat is listed, you can always use salmon instead. As far as your fishing for a salmon recipe, remember: All of my recipes are secret, so I can't really give them to you (I keep them hidden on the NPR WHYY Web site, whyy.org/chef). Consider this recipe a loan, an offer you can't refuse. In return, I expect an invitation to go fishing, or at least a taste of whatever you make.
1 teaspoon kosher salt1 teaspoon ground mustard seed1 teaspoon dried crushed thyme½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper4 salmon steaks or fillets (6 ounces each)2 teaspoons honey3 teaspoons olive oil, divided2 quarts spinach leaves3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced½ cup halved red seedless grapes1 cup halved cherry tomatoes1 tablespoon capers½ cup dry red wineSalt to tasteCombine salt, mustard, thyme and pepper. Mix well. Rub salmon fillets with honey and sprinkle with seasoning mixture. Reserve any remaining seasoning mixture.Heat 2 teaspoons olive oil in nonstick skillet. Brown both sides of salmon fillet to desired doneness. Toss spinach and garlic with remaining 1 teaspoon oil in saute pan until wilted; remove from the pan and keep warm.Sauté grapes in skillet, add wine, cherry tomatoes and capers, season to taste with remaining seasoning mixture and salt; cook until liquid is reduced by half. Serve salmon on spinach; top with grape sauce.
1½ to 2 pounds mussels, washed1 pound medium to large shrimp, shell on1½ pounds of firm textured fish (such as monkfish, halibut, cod, etc.) cut into 1½-inch chunks1½ pounds small clams5 tablespoons olive oil6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped2 onions, finely chopped1 bulb fennel, finely chopped1½ pounds tomatoes, chopped1 tablespoon tomato puree1 small bunch fresh chopped parsley3 sprigs fresh thyme2 bay leaves2 cups fish stock (or substitute with 1 cup bottled clam juice with 1 cup water to thin out; watch the sodium if using clam juice. Do not salt until tasting at the end.)1 teaspoon saffronSalt and pepper to taste1 bunch fresh basil, choppedWhite wine as neededIn a large pan, heat olive oil. Add onions, garlic, and fennel and cook gently for 10 minutes over medium heat or until vegetables are soft.Add tomatoes, tomato puree, parsley, thyme, bay leaves, fish stock, and saffron. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 45 minutes, stirring constantly.When just about ready to serve, add the fish, mussels and clams, and simmer just until fish is cooked through and mussels and clams are open. If the stock gets to be too thick, thin it out with a little white wine. Add basil and season with salt and pepper.
