It's that boasting time of year again, when people begin campaigning for the crowns of Greatest Kitchen Martyr and Most Ingenious Holiday Chef.

This is marked by animated exchanges — often between folks who really cook no more than once a year — relaying tales of Herculean efforts in Thanksgivings past.

"You cooked for HOW many people last year? Oh, you poor thing!" the conversation typically begins. "We had twice that number ..."

At least in Philadelphia's Center City neighborhood, where most rowhomes are so obviously small, the purported guest lists never exceed double digits. Instead, the fantabulous stories usually revolve around miracles of culinary efficiency — of feasts emerging in immaculate glory from postage stamp kitchens equipped with little more than a fancy toaster oven and a George Foreman grill. (And, ahem, a good prepared foods store nearby).

Some of these feats — including mine — may even be true.

I call it "Thanksgiving by Fire," and not simply because it involves convincing 17 relatives to cram into a living room/dining room/foyer not suited to host more than 12. This holiday really involves open flames, and I'd have it no other way. Because my Weber charcoal grill makes the best darn turkey in the world.

It's so good that small children who previously looked with suspicion upon any poultry that wasn't presented as a deep-fried nugget, were suddenly doing battle with grown uncles for drumstick rights.

Not to boast, but it's true.

Now, I know all about the various other cults of turkey gimmickry — the deep fried turkey, the mail-order tur-duck-en, the Big Green Egg turkey, the vegan tofurky.

But this tradition, now in its fourth edition, began purely as a practicality, as a way to both cheat my one-oven city kitchen and cater to guests' different dietary needs.

And it works like a charm, leaving the oven space for side dishes and a pan of extra turkey breasts that take up less space and cook more quickly. I cook Kosher breasts so the more observant members of my Jewish family can eat turkey, too. But we often need the additional meat, since the dome-shaped kettle does limit the turkey's size — 18 pounds max — and it ought to be a squat bird at that. It may be the grill's only drawback.

What it lacks in size, though, the barbecued turkey makes up in flavor and ease.

The first requirement is the right kind of grill — a charcoal kettle equipped with moveable coal baskets for indirect heating (that is, on the sides of the turkey, not directly beneath it) and flip-up side grates to allow for easy refilling without cooking interruptions.

And of course, you also need a good bird, and for this we buy a fresh, never-frozen, naturally raised turkey each year (stores such as Whole Foods and some farmers markets carry these).

Thirdly, I swear by the power of the brine, a 24-hour submersion in heavily salted-sweet water that infuses every pore in our turkey's flesh with garlic, herbs and juniper. The trickiest part of the brine is finding a good neighbor, preferably one heading out of town, with enough spare fridge space on Thanksgiving eve to accommodate the trashbag-lined wastebasket filled with our bathing beauty. (Thanks, Joe and Dawn!)

Then, when show time arrives, it's time to dress it up. Removed from the brine, I rub the turkey with cut lemons, a nice sheen of olive oil, a dusting of smoked paprika and fistfuls of fragrant herbes de Provence. The cavity gets full-seasoning, as well, plus as many lemon and orange halves and heads of garlic as can fit inside.

When the barbecue is up to temperature (around 350-degrees, according to the thermometer mounted in the grill lid), I place the turkey directly on the grates over a drip pan, cover and let it roast.

With minimal attention — occasional coal refills, minimal basting — the grill's knowing heat works magic within three hours or less, transforming that pale turkey into a wonder bird, a package of gushing juice and sublimely tender meat wrapped in a crackling crisp of mahogany brown skin.

And then, when your conventional oven suddenly blows a fuse at 4 p.m. (as mine did last year, just as guests were starting to arrive), you'll find that grill is good for heating stuffing, too.

15-18-pound turkey, preferably never frozen2 lemons, cut in half½ cup olive oilSalt and pepper, to taste2 tablespoons smoked Spanish paprika½ cup herbes de Provence1 orange, cut in half1 head garlic, halved1 bunch thyme6 bay leaves1 bunch parsleyRemove the turkey from the brine, dry and remove the wishbone. Rub the entire bird with juice from one lemon half. Smear the whole turkey with olive oil, then season generously (both inside and out) with salt and pepper, paprika, and herbes de Provence. Stuff the cavity with remaining cut lemons, orange, garlic and herbs.Truss turkey cavity closed. The inside thighs should be slightly exposed to heat (not tied too tightly against the body), but the legs should be tied loosely so they do not hang over direct heat and burn.Prepare the grill by placing an aluminum pan for drippings with a little water in the bottom between two coal side baskets, then preheat the briquettes. For a 22½-inch grill, count 50 briquettes to begin. When the coals are well-started, divide them evenly (about 25 each) into each side basket. Open vents on the lid and bottom, place the cooking grate over the coals, and close the lid until the kettle reaches about 350 degrees.Place the turkey on the grate above the drip pan and cover the lid. Add about eight coals per side every hour (or four every half hour) to maintain temperature. A 15-17-pound unstuffed turkey should take from 2to 3½ hours to cook. Be sure to use a meat thermometer to make sure the bird is cooked: when the thermometer registers 180 degrees in the thickest part of the thigh, or 170 degrees in the breast.Remove, cover with foil, and let rest a minimum of 45 minutes before carving.Makes 12 servings.Grilling techniques from Weber; recipe from Craig LaBanPer serving: 1,351 calories, 170 grams protein, 4 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram sugar, 68 grams fat, 496 milligrams cholesterol, 413 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

8 quarts water2 cups coarse kosher salt1 cup packed brown sugar (or honey)1 bunch thyme6 to 8 peeled whole garlic cloves2 tablespoons black pepper1 tablespoon juniper berryPrepare a container large enough to hold a turkey, but small enough to fit inside a refrigerator, by lining it with a sturdy trash bag. (A plastic office wastebasket works well.)Place turkey inside.Mix half the water well with salt and sugar. Pour over turkey, and add thyme, garlic, pepper and juniper.Add remaining water, then tie trash bag to seal tightly. Place in refrigerator for 24 hours.Makes enough for one 15-18-pound turkeyAdapted by Craig LaBan from a standard brine recipe

5 pounds sweet potatoes, unpeeled4 tablespoons unsalted butter1 cup sour cream2 tablespoons fresh lime juice2 tablespoons honey½ teaspoon salt¼ teaspoon white pepperPreheat oven to 400 degrees.Bake potatoes until soft, about 45 minutes. Set aside to cool.Peel, roughly chop and puree the potatoes in food processor, being careful not to overprocess.Place butter and sour cream in medium saucepan over medium low heat.Stir in pureed potatoes and remaining ingredients, adjust seasonings, and serve immediately.Makes six servings.From "City Cuisine" (William Morrow & Co. 1989)Per serving: 163 calories, 1 gram protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams sugar, 15 grams fat, 36 milligrams cholesterol, 212 milligrams sodium, no dietary fiber.

18 ounces cranberries, fresh or frozen, rinsed, drained3 ounces (stick) butter, melted, plus some for pan1 cup superfine sugar1 cup chopped pecans1 large egg, beaten½ cup sifted all-purpose flour1 teaspoon cardamom seeds, crushed in a mortar3 tablespoons granulated light brown sugar

1 scant cup dark brown sugar4 ounces (1 stick) butter½ cup heavy (whipping) cream3 tablespoons brandyFor the torte: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and line the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan with parchment. Add the cranberries mixed with ½ cup of the superfine sugar and the pecans.In a bowl, make a batter by beating the remaining ½ cup of sugar with the egg. Add the flour, melted butter, cardamom and mix well. Pour batter evenly over the cranberries. Sprinkle light brown sugar on top. Bake until the cake tests done, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove pan to a wire rack to cool.For the sauce: Combine the sugar, butter and cream in a pan. Stir over low heat until the sugar dissolves and the sauce bubbles. Remove from heat; stir in the brandy.Use a sharp knife to gently loosen the sides of the torte. Release the pan and, with the torte on the pan base, slice into wedges. Serve topped with warm Toffee-Brandy Sauce.Note: The torte can be made early in the day and the sauce, up to two days ahead to be reheated before serving.Makes 10 servings.Recipe from Party Food for Vegetarians by Celia Brooks Brown (Laurel Glen, 2003)Per serving: 576 calories, 3 grams protein, 62 grams carbohydrates, 44 grams sugar, 36 grams fat, 101 milligrams cholesterol, 228 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.