QUESTION: I have a risotto recipe that calls for saffron threads. I have heard of saffron, but I have not heard of saffron threads — are they different from regular saffron? If I buy saffron threads, do you have another recipe I can use them in?ANSWER: Shrimp scampi, chili pepper, tuna fish, soda pop, scotch whiskey, pizza pie, chicken coq au vin, and saffron threads. What could these possibly have in common, you ask? They are all pleonasms, or two words that form a concept or saying that is unnecessarily redundant.Saffron is composed of the dried stigmas or "threads" of the purple saffron crocus. The word itself is derived from the Arabic word za'faran meaning "yellow." The Crocus sativus, from which the saffron threads are hand-picked, is a member of the iris family and only blooms for two or three weeks in autumn.There are only three threads per flower, which explains the hefty price you will commonly find on saffron. It takes 210,000 stigmas from more than 70,000 flowers to make one pound of saffron.Not surprisingly, saffron is the world's most expensive spice, going for about $800 a pound these days, which means you can get an ounce of it for about $28 and change. You can also buy saffron by the gram and half-gram, smaller quantities that cost substantially less.Sometimes a grocer might keep this precious spice "in the back" or "under the counter" since it costs so much. The sticker shock can sometimes discourage people from buying it, but I'm just wild about saffron. With a price like that, this is a flower worth spending some time talking about!No one knows for sure when the saffron crocus was first cultivated, but the idea is believed to have taken root in prehistoric Greek times. Excavations in Knossos, Crete, revealed frescoes depicting saffron. (Back then, it cost three whole goats for a pound!)We find the origins of the word "crocus" itself in the Greek word croci, which means weft or thread used for weaving on a loom.Today, you will find most saffron being grown in southern Europe and Asia Minor. Spain is the world's largest exporter of the spice. A few years ago, there were only two commercial saffron farms in the United States, and they both happened to be in Lancaster County, Pa.Saffron is usually sold in its original thread form; however you can buy ground saffron. The problem is, once the threads have been broken, you loose the potency of the spice.And through the years it wasn't unheard of for a dishonest spice packager to cut ground saffron with turmeric or safflower. Most of those packagers are now pushing up crocuses.It is also hard to tell how old saffron is when it is ground. There should be a "use by" date on the package, and if I buy more than I need, I usually freeze it. Otherwise, store your saffron away from light and heat in an airtight container, as you would your other spices.When cooking with saffron, your food will get a bright yellow coloring. If you use a saffron blend (as mentioned above), you won't get that same vibrant color, and you certainly won't get the flavor of the spice.The biggest mistake people can make with saffron is to not cook it long enough. If the first step in your risotto recipe directs you to saute onions or garlic, you should add the saffron threads midway through your sauteing.By adding it early to the sauteing mixture, and because risotto cooks for a good long time, the saffron will then have a chance to fully release its flavor and color in the arborio rice.For other dishes that may take 15 minutes or less, you may need to lightly break the saffron up in your hand or steep it in warm liquid to give the saffron enough time and heat to release the flavor. There are certain dishes that traditionally call for saffron, such as risotto, paella, or bouillabaisse.

5 pounds selected firm, white fish such as cod, cut into 1½-inch chunks1 to 2 pounds mussels, washed5 tablespoons olive oil2 onions, finely chopped6 cloves garlic, finely chopped1 bulb fennel, finely chopped1½ pounds tomatoes, chopped1 tablespoon tomato puree1 small bunch fresh chopped parsley3 sprigs fresh thyme2 bay leaves1½ cups bottled clam juicecup of water1 teaspoon lightly packed saffron threadsSalt and pepper to taste1 bunch fresh basil, choppedIn a large pan, heat olive oil. Add onions, garlic, and fennel and cook gently for 10 minutes over medium heat, or until vegetables are soft.Add tomatoes, tomato puree, parsley, thyme, bay leaves, clam juice, water, and saffron. Bring to a simmer and allow to cook for about 45 minutes, stirring frequently.When just about ready to serve, add the fish and mussels and cook just until fish is cooked through, and mussels are open.Add basil and season with salt and pepper. Be careful with the salt because the clam juice will be salty.Makes six to eight servings.