James Bond prefers his shaken, not stirred.

I like mine thick enough for a spoon or a fork.

When it comes to that icon of cool, a martini glass can hold a classic American cocktail. Or nowadays, a whole lot more.

Ahi tartare. Silky panna cotta. Spicy ceviche. Basil ice cream. Even good, old-fashioned mashed potatoes or Jell-O.

Put anything into a martini glass, and instantly it's glamorous.

That's why Gillian Baggen, pastry chef at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in San Francisco, loves to serve individual desserts in the sophisticated stemware, especially layered desserts that look so alluring behind clear glass. She might start with some coffee gelee, add a layer of biscotti bits, then some mascarpone mousse, and end with icy coffee granita. It's a distinctive dessert made all the more striking by its vessel.

"The martini glass is so versatile and so attractive," Baggen says. "With its wide top, it's very nice to decorate. The stem gives it a different dimension; it has that height. Whatever you put into it becomes tall and elegant."

With its wide conical bowl perched atop a slender, fragile stem, the glass has an artsy, sexy and dangerous air. After all, even when you're seated, it takes a steady hand to avoid spilling its contents.

As with a wine or champagne glass, the stem on a martini glass allows you to pick it up without warming the contents with your hand. Some say the wide rim heightens the gin's bouquet in a classic martini. Others say the glass was created during Prohibition because it allowed the martini to be quaffed in three gulps or quickly dumped out in the event of a police raid.

No matter the occasion, a martini glass always serves high drama.

So skip the Cosmos and the Lemon Drops. Next time you entertain, set aside some snazzy martini glasses for something more substantial. Make it easy - a scoop of Haagen-Dazs with a drizzle of fudge sauce. Or make it challenging - a scallop mousse topped with lobster and caviar. Whatever you put inside is sure to dazzle.

Bottoms up.

Because the shrimp are cooked, this isn't a true ceviche. But the flavors are bright, spritely and just a tad hot - just like all good ceviches.2 pounds small shrimp, peeled6 limes1 tablespoon olive oil1 ripe tomato, cored, seeded and diced½ cup minced white or red onion1 garlic clove, minced1 jalapeno, minced (or use crushed red pepper flakes or any other source of heat), or to tasteSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 cup cilantro, choppedCook shrimp however is convenient: You can steam them above boiling water, immerse them in boiling water, or microwave them; in any case, the cooking time will be just a few minutes. Chill (if you're in a hurry, run shrimp under cold water).Quarter two limes and set aside; juice remaining limes. Combine lime juice with oil, tomato, onion, garlic, jalapeño and shrimp. Toss and add salt and pepper to taste, along with more jalapeño if you like. Stir in about half the cilantro. Divide ceviche among eight martini glasses. Garnish each glass with a little of the remaining cilantro. Serve with lime wedges and tortilla chips.Makes eight servings.From "The Minimalist Entertains" by Mark Bittman

This cold, creamy, not-too-sweet eggless custard is fantastic on its own. But it also can be topped with fresh berries, brandied cherries, orange or tangerine segments, chocolate shavings or even chocolate chips. For a fun party idea, set out small bowls of each to create a "toppings bar" and let your guests help themselves.2¼ cups heavy cream1 cup (less 2 tablespoons) granulated sugar1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped; both bean and seeds reserved3cups buttermilk2 packets powdered unflavored gelatinZest of 1 lemonBring cream and sugar to boil in large saucepan, add scraped vanilla bean and its seeds. Stir to combine.Remove pot from heat, discard vanilla bean. Set aside.Pour buttermilk into bowl or measuring cup. Sprinkle gelatin over the top, and allow to bloom for two to three minutes, without stirring.Place saucepan of cream and sugar back on stove-top on medium-high heat. Slowly pour buttermilk-gelatin mixture into saucepan, whisking constantly until well mixed. Bring to boil, stirring occasionally.Remove from heat, and whisk in lemon zest. Pour mixture into six martini glasses. Chill until firm, at least five hours or overnight.From Gillian Baggen, pastry chef of the Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco

½ cup granulated sugar1½ cups cold water¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh mint leaves, plus fresh mint sprigs for garnish2 cups assorted fresh blueberries, raspberries and blackberries, picked over1 envelope unflavored gelatinCombine sugar, one cup water and chopped mint in small heavy saucepan and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer five minutes. Pour through fine mesh strainer into heat-proof measuring cup. Let cool to room temperature. (This will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator up two day days.)Divide berries among four martini glasses.In small stainless-steel bowl, sprinkle gelatin over remaining half cup water and let soften for two minutes. Bring two inches of water in a medium-size saucepan to a bare simmer. Set bowl over pan, without letting it touch water, and whisk constantly until gelatin is completely dissolved, two to three minutes. Quickly whisk gelatin into mint sugar syrup, then pour syrup evenly over berries. Syrup should come up almost to the top of each glass. Let cool slightly, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until set, at least six hours or overnight.To serve, unwrap, and garnish each glass with a mint sprig.Makes four servings.From "Icebox Desserts" by Lauren Chattman.

For spicy tuna poke:12 ounces center-cut ahi tuna, cut into ½-inch dice½ cup mayonnaise4 teaspoons sriracha (a sweet and spicy Thai condiment sold at Asian markets in plastic squeeze bottles)1 teaspoon Asian fish sauceSalt and freshly ground black pepperFor salad topping:2 ounces micro-greens or chervil1 tablespoon truffle oil1½ lemons, juicedSalt and freshly ground black pepper½ (7-inch-by-8-inch) sheet nori (dried black-green seaweed), cut into 1-inch julienne1 avocado, peeled, pitted and cut into ½-inch diceJuice of ½ lemonSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon tobiko caviar (flying fish roe)To prepare poke: Put diced ahi in bowl. In separate bowl, mix together mayonnaise, sriracha and fish sauce. Stir enough mayonnaise sauce into ahi to moisten and cover all pieces. Add more sauce if you like, depending on how saucy you want it. Season ahi mixture with salt and pepper to taste.Cover and refrigerate.To prepare salad topping: Toss greens with truffle oil, two-thirds of the lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle nori over salad mixture.To assemble: Chill four eight-ounce martini glasses. In bowl, gently toss avocado with the rest of the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Layer an eighth of avocado and tuna poke in each martini glass, starting with avocado and ending with poke, and repeat so that each glass has four layers. Garnish with salad topping and tobiko.Makes four servings.

4 medium cucumbers, peeled, quartered, seeded, and cut across into 2-inch lengths1 tablespoon kosher salt2 large cloves garlic, smashed and peeledcup packed mint leaves1 cups plain yogurt2 cups ice waterFreshly ground black pepper to taste16 to 20 mint leavesIn food processor, chop cucumbers medium-fine. Scrape into medium metal bowl. Stir in two teaspoons salt. Let stand one and a half hours. Drain cucumber in medium-fine sieve, pressing lightly. Put cucumber in metal bowl.In food processor, chop garlic and mint fine. Add to cucumbers. Stir in remaining ingredients. Refrigerate until cold.Before serving, stir to combine. Spoon into four martini glasses. Top with mint leaves.Makes about four cups.