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Baking with artificial sweeteners requires time and experimentation

ST. LOUIS - Most of us would gladly sail away with Shirley Temple on her "Good Ship Lollipop" with its bonbons, peppermints and chocolate bars. In short, we love our sweets.

But many people must cut their sugar intake due to medical conditions such as diabetes or other diet restrictions. Artificial sweeteners can fill the void.

The best-known are saccharin (sold as Sweet'N Low, among other brand names), dating back nearly 100 years, and its newer counterparts, aspartame (Equal) and sucralose (Splenda). All can work well in homemade pie fillings, cheesecakes, sauces, marinades and glazes.

However, artificially sweetened homemade candy may have a coarse texture, cakes and cookies may seem dry and pale, and custards may cook up firmer and require a shorter baking time, said Cynthia Fauser, a nutrition specialist who teaches diabetic cooking classes.

For that reason, home cooks usually will get far better results by using a recipe designed for a specific sweetener rather than adjusting a recipe that calls for sugar.

In some recipes using artificial sweeteners, small amounts of honey, brown sugar, molasses or maple syrup are needed to provide structure, browning, moisture, tenderness and preservation.

In addition to natural sweeteners, other ingredients can add luster to pale, unappealing dishes. For example, sweet potatoes give color and flavor to a Splenda-sweetened pound cake created by Sylvia Woods, owner of Sylvia's Restaurant of Harlem, N.Y, a popular soul-food eatery.

If, then, expectations are kept in check, foods baked with sugar substitutes can be satisfying.

But it will just take time and experimentation to find the exact mix that is pleasing to the individual palate.

Now it's time to go forth and bake.

Low volume: Consider replacing some of the sweetener with sugar, or use a smaller pan. When baking with Splenda granular, try adding ½ cup nonfat dry milk and ½ teaspoon baking soda for every cup of sweetener.Poor structure and texture: Certain foods don't do well when using 100 percent sweetener. Consider using Splenda and sugar in equal amounts when making frostings, candy, fudge, caramel, pecan pies, angel food cake or pound cake.Cookies will not spread: Flatten before baking.Weak flavor: Add vanilla, honey or molasses to taste.Poor color: Add 1 to 2 tablespoons molasses to recipe. Or remove baked goods 4 to 5 minutes before the end of the baking time and brush with 1 to 2 tablespoons beaten egg white, milk, honey or maple syrup or coat lightly with nonstick cooking spray. Return to oven until lightly browned.Limited preservation: Store in an airtight container for no more than 24 hours. For longer periods, freeze in an airtight container.Sources: www.Equal.com; www.splenda.com; www.sweetnlow.com; www.sparkpeople.com; www.diabetic-lifestyle.com; Cynthia Fauser, nutrition specialist for University of Missouri Outreach; "Splenda No Calorie Sweetener" cookbook (Publications International, $21.95); Monica Neufang, director of communications for McNeil Nutritionals, maker of Splenda; Barbara Ridenhour, director of consumer affairs for Dierbergs.

½ cup chopped walnuts3 cups sifted cake flour (sift before measuring)2 cups sucralose granular sweetener (see note)1 teaspoon baking powder½ teaspoon salt¼ teaspoon baking soda1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened1 cup mashed sweet potatoes, cooled1 cup low-fat buttermilk1 teaspoon lemon extract1 teaspoon vanilla6 large eggsPreheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 10-inch bundt pan. Sprinkle walnuts in pan; set aside.Combine flour, sweetener, baking powder, salt and baking soda in a large bowl; set aside.Beat butter at medium speed with an electric mixer about 2 minutes or until creamy. Beat in sweet potatoes, buttermilk, lemon extract and vanilla. Add flour mixture in thirds, beating after each addition until batter is smooth. Add eggs, one at a time, beating just until yellow disappears. Spoon batter into the prepared pan.Bake 50 to 60 minutes or until a long wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from pan; let cool completely on the wire rack, nut-side up.Makes 12 servings.Nutrition information per serving: 300 calories; 15 grams fat (43 percent calories from fat); 8 grams saturated fat; 30 mg cholesterol; 7 grams protein; 33 grams carbohydrate; 2 grams sugar; 1 gram fiber; 230 mg sodium.Note:2 cups of sucralose granular sweetener are equal in sweetness to 2 cups of granulated sugar.Adapted from a recipe by Sylvia Woods of Sylvia's Soul Food, for "Splenda No Calorie Sweetener."

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, softened3 packets saccharin (see note)¼ teaspoon grated orange zest (colored portion of peel)¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest1 teaspoon chopped walnuts¼ cup unsweetened shredded coconut, toastedWork cream cheese with a spoon until light and fluffy. Thoroughly mix in sweetener, orange and lemon zest and walnuts. Chill until firm, about 20 minutes. Roll into 12 (1-inch) balls. Roll in toasted coconut. Refrigerate.Makes 12 servings.Nutrition information per serving: 37 calories; 3.5 grams fat (85 percent calories from fat); 2.5 grams saturated fat; 8 mg cholesterol; 0.5 gram protein; 1 gram carbohydrate; no sugar; no fiber; 22 mg sodium; 6 mg calcium; 18 mg potassium.Note:3 packets of saccharin are equal in sweetness to 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar.Adapted from www.sweetnlow.com.

CRUST1 cup graham-cracker crumbs3 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted2 tablespoons Equal Spoonful or 3 packets aspartame sweetener (see note)FILLING2 (8-ounce) packages reduced-fat cream cheese, softenedcup Equal Spoonful or 16 packets aspartame sweetener (see note)1 egg2 egg whites½ teaspoon grated lime zest (colored portion of peel), plus more for optional garnish3 tablespoons fresh lime juiceTo prepare crust: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a large bowl, combine graham cracker crumbs, butter and sweetener. Press onto the bottom and ½ inch up the sides of an 8-inch springform pan or 8-inch round cake pan. Bake for 8 minutes. Let cool on wire rack. Do not turn oven off.While crust is cooling, prepare filling: Beat cream cheese and sweetener in a mixer bowl on medium speed until smooth and well combined. Beat in egg, egg whites, lime zest and juice until well-blended.Pour cream cheese mixture over baked crust. Return to oven; bake 30 to 35 minutes or until center of cake is almost set. Let cool slightly on a wire rack. Gently run a metal spatula around the rim of the pan to loosen cake. Let cheesecake cool completely. Cover and refrigerate for several hours or overnight before serving.To serve, remove side of pan. Garnish with lime zest.Makes 8 servings.Nutrition information per serving: 240 calories; 16 grams fat (60 percent calories from fat); 9 grams saturated fat; 74 mg cholesterol; 9 grams protein; 15 grams carbohydrate; 4 grams sugar; no fiber; 256 mg sodium; 73 mg calcium; 140 mg potassium.Note:The 2 tablespoons Equal Spoonful or 3 packets aspartame sweetener in the crust are equal in sweetness to 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar. Thecup Equal Spoonful or 16 packets aspartame sweetener in the filling are equal in sweetness tocup of granulated sugar.Adapted from: www.equal.com/Recipes.

Saccharin(Sweet'N Low, Sweet Twin, Sweet'N Low Brown, Necta Sweet):Properties: In its pure form, 300 times sweeter than sugar. Does not lose sweetness when heated; dissolves easily in hot and cold beverages; has a marked aftertaste.Substitutions: ¼ cup sugar is equal in sweetness to 6 packets, 2 teaspoons granulated or brown or 1½ teaspoons liquid saccharin.Aspartame(Equal, Sugar Twin, Nutrasweet):Properties: In its pure form, 200 times sweeter than sugar. Loses flavor when exposed to high heat, but can be added to food after cooking. Found in dozens of products, including diet sodas, gelatin products, sugar-free teas, cocoa mixes, juices and yogurts; when used in moderation, no or little aftertaste. Should be avoided by individuals with phenylketonuria, a rare hereditary disease.Substitutions: ¼ cup sugar is equal in sweetness to 6 packets, ¼ cup granulated or 1teaspoons Equal for recipes.Sucralose(Splenda):Properties: In its pure form, 600 times sweeter than sugar. Tastes like sugar; can be used in the microwave; retains sweetness when exposed to high heat; when used in moderation, no or little aftertaste.Substitutions: ¼ cup sugar is equal in sweetness to 6 packets or ¼ cup granulated.Sources: www.Equal.com; www.splenda.com; www.sweetnlow.com; www.diabetic-lifestyle.com; Cynthia Fauser, nutrition specialist for University of Missouri Outreach; www.freediettips.com.

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