QUESTION: My 1970s kitchen is in need of remodeling. I am going to paint the old cabinets. Do you have any recommendations on paint type? Also, what options do I have for painting the Formica countertop?ANSWER: Painting cabinets and Formica isn't terribly difficult. But you can't rush the jobs.For the cabinets, first remove the doors and then remove all their hardware. Wipe all surfaces with a clean rag saturated with mineral spirits (paint thinner), to remove surface contamination. You may have to do this twice or more, since older cabinets typically have a heavy buildup of dirt, grease and wax. Change rags frequently to avoid depositing dirt back onto the cabinets.Wash the surface with equal parts household ammonia and water. Rinse well with clean water. Allow the surface to dry completely.Prime the surface with a shellac-based primer-sealer. Let it dry for about an hour.The finish coats should be an oil-base paint - alkyd enamel is the type most often recommended for interior wood surfaces and masonry - for a harder, more stain-resistant, washable and durable finish. Two coats should be enough, but the number of coats depends on the look you want.Depending on the temperature and humidity, each coat may take two or more days to dry. Make sure each coat dries completely and is not tacky to the touch.After the first coat dries, sand the surface with a fine-grit sandpaper to make the coat of paint even and blotch-free. Use a tack cloth - available at most hardware and home improvement stores - to remove all the sanding dust, and apply the next coat.As for painting the Formica, let's start with a warning: No matter how well you do the job, the painted surface will not be as durable as the original. Still, painting can be a cost-effective solution until you are ready to replace the counters altogether.First, clean the countertop with a detergent, then wipe it with denatured alcohol, which removes leftover oil and grease.Sand the surface with 120-grit sandpaper to create a slightly rough scratch, so the paint will better adhere to it. The surface should be flat, with no pock marks. If there are holes, fill with wood filler and sand flat.Prime with two thin coats of an oil-based paint, applied with a short-nap roller. The finish coat, which should also be oil-based, will adhere better to the primer than to the original surface.Once both primer coats are completely dry, apply as many coats of the finish as you like.

QUESTIONS: I am trying to remove plaster to expose a brick wall. Is there a special kind of tool I should be using? The job is brutal.ANSWER: Unfortunately, there's just no easy way to get the job done. A hammer and cold chisel is what I have used for such a task. I wore gloves, a mask, and safety glasses during the work.

QUESTION: There has been a "wet rag" smell coming from my garbage disposal for weeks. I have tried treatments of vinegar and baking soda and other products, with no luck.ANSWER: Odor coming from a garbage disposal is often a sign of food and grease buildup, caused by insufficient water flow during and after use, the people at In-Sink-Erator say. Food and grease can accumulate in the disposal's grinding chamber (where the blades of the shredder break up food) and on the splash baffle (the black rubber flaps just below the sink's drain opening and just above the grinding chamber).What to do: Turn off the disposal and disconnect the power supply. Reach through the sink opening and clean the underside of the splash baffle and the inside upper lip of the grinding chamber with a scouring pad.Then place a stopper in the sink opening and fill the sink halfway with warm water. Mix one-quarter cup of baking soda with the water. Turn the disposal on and remove the stopper from the sink at the same time, to wash away loose particles.Disposals also can be cleaned with Disposer Care, which is generally available at major home centers, hardware and grocery stores.

QUESTION: We are preparing our house for sale and would like to know the best way to clean the concrete walk to the house. Also, what is the best method of cleaning the stucco?ANSWER: For surface dirt on either material, try water and a soft, nonmetallic brush. If that doesn't work, scrub with a mild detergent and water. If that, too, fails, add ammonia to the detergent and water.Or, instead of scrubbing, try to remove the dirt with a power washer; you can rent one at most home centers. For concrete, get a washer that operates at a force of 3,000 pounds per square inch - it will be powerful enough to move the dirt but won't damage your sidewalk.You can use a power washer on stucco, but you have to be careful - the washer might dislodge some loose material. Ask for one that delivers a force of 1,500 pounds per square inch and has an adjustable nozzle, so you can keep the spray light.Home centers and hardware stores sell light-duty chemical cleaners for both manual scrubbing and power washing. But be sure the product directions specify use for concrete and/or stucco. Before using a chemical cleaner on the entire soiled area, check that it cleans the surface only, and doesn't strip it. Test in an inconspicuous place, following the product directions.Send questions to Alan Heavens, The Philadelphia Inquirer, Box 8263, 400 N. Broad St., Philadelphia 19101 or aheavens@phillynews.com