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`Triple whammy' puts squeeze on tomatoes

Wholesale prices 5 times usual level

ATLANTA - Hold the tomatoes. On everything.

The worst tomato shortage in 14 years is causing sticker shock at supermarkets and rationing in restaurants. Some cafeterias have stopped serving fresh tomatoes altogether.

A combination of catastrophes has damaged or destroyed tomatoes in the three major fall growing regions of Florida, California and Mexico. First, hurricanes ripped up the Florida crop. Then rains damaged the California output, limiting its yield. Now pests and rain are attacking Mexican tomatoes.

"The industry's been hit by the proverbial triple whammy," said Hudson Riehle, vice president of research for the National Restaurant Association.

Wholesale prices have soared to five times their usual level. "Price at shipping," a tracking statistic used by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, rose from $8 for a 25-pound box in early September to $40 a box by late November.

Many tomatoes are not only more expensive, but of lower quality: mealy, mushy, moldy or small.

Fast-food giant Wendy's International began to cope with the shortage in October by pulling ads for its chicken sandwiches, which feature fresh tomatoes, and focusing on other menu items. As the shortage worsened, restaurants posted signs saying that tomatoes would be added to sandwiches only on request.

"Most of our customers have been very understanding," said Bob Bertini, a Wendy's spokesman. "They realize this is a situation that involves not just Wendy's, but all restaurants, supermarkets and grocery stores."

Sodexho USA, which runs food service operations at many hospitals, businesses and schools, has posted similar signs. Like other restaurants serving deli sandwiches, they add tomatoes only on request.

Some cafeterias and restaurants have pulled them altogether. Some post signs blaming the weather, while others say the quality of the tomatoes is too poor to serve them.

"I go to Subway and usually get extra tomatoes, and some places didn't even have them," said Justin Fuller of Smyrna, Ga.

Decatur schools, near Atlanta, have stopped ordering beefsteak tomatoes for sandwiches and salads until the price comes down, and are using less expensive cherry tomatoes in salads. "In the last couple of weeks, it's just gotten terrible," said Allison Goodman, nutrition director.

Cobb County schools are cutting back, too. Cafeteria managers, armed with a list of central office suggestions for conserving fresh tomatoes, are taking them off of sandwiches, substituting other fresh produce in salads and using canned diced tomatoes or salsa for nachos.

Sweet Tomatoes, a California-based chain with four metro Atlanta locations, has juggled varieties of tomatoes to keep its salad bars stocked. Because of the shortage, it won't offer a tomato-cucumber salad this winter, said spokeswoman Joan Scharff.

Some restaurants are taking the shortage in stride. Willy's Mexicana Grill, with 15 locations, is paying more for tomatoes. But with prices dropping for chicken, steak and dairy products, things balance out, said Vice President Keith Norris.

And the worst may be almost over. Earlier this week, prices dipped as farms began shipping more tomatoes. Within six weeks, prices could fall from astronomical to affordable.

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