Watching a craftsman at work can be an inspiring experience.

We were recently involved in a large, somewhat complex concrete pour. The nine concrete finishers, the two laborers, the carpenter and the pump operator all working together was a demonstration of real teamwork. This crew poured and finished 4,000 square feet of 6-inch-thick concrete (including 300 feet of faced, 6-inch curb) in less than six hours - an impressive feat.

If you've been thinking about a summer concrete project, there are a few things to know first.

Unlike painting, where preparation is 80 percent of the job, with concrete work the ratio is about fifty-fifty; 50 percent preparation and 50 percent pour and finish.

Preparing for concrete involves several simple steps:

Grading - Keep costs down by placing no more concrete than needed.

Forming - Wood forms should be effectively braced as concrete can be extraordinarily heavy.

Structural steel and imbeds - Rebar is better than welded wire fabric for outside work. Remember, concrete expands and contracts radically as the temperature outside changes. Cracks will never be a problem if a mat of half-inch reinforcing steel is used. The bars should run in two directions - crossing each other at a 90-degree angle - and be as close together as 12 inches. Every contact point (where the bars cross) should be attached with steel tie wire.

The grade beneath the concrete should be consistent with the finished surface. This reduces waste, which, in turn, saves money. In extreme cases, it also can reduce the chance of cracking.

Grading tip: Don't fill pockets in the grade with loose dirt. Loose dirt does not provide a sturdy base. Instead, use gravel, sand or crushed rock that can be compacted.

After the grade is roughed in, the forms can be installed. Use ample upright stakes (2-foot centers) with lots of angle-brace staking as well. Next, be sure to use plenty of form release oil.

Use a garden pump spray rig to apply the liquid onto every surface of the form material that will come into direct contact with the concrete.

This ensures easy form removal later. Be careful here. Form release oil is just that - oil. You don't want it anywhere but on the forms - certainly not on your clothes, plants, house or existing driveway or decks. Most of all, you don't want it on the structural steel in your concrete. The strength of structural steel is somewhat diminished when oiled.

The next step is to install the structural steel and imbeds. A steel reinforcing bar (rebar) mat made of ½ half-inch bars at 2-foot centers is common.

Pouring and finishing

involves:

Using strong concrete and pouring the proper thickness.

A pump that costs $300 or more. It can save money in the long run.

Experienced concrete finishers.

Everyone in the industry knows who the good ones are. Check with concrete batch plant personnel, concrete supply stores, etc. Hire at least one finisher per every 500 square feet.

Brothers James and Morris Carey are nationally accredited home remodelers who have written a column for the Associated Press for more than a decade. Readers can mail questions to: On the House, AP Newsfeatures, 50 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10020, or e-mail careybro@onthehouse.com. Readers can also check their Web site at www.onthehouse.com