Neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed, for greasing and frying2 cups water1 cup chick-pea flour, sifted (see note)Salt and freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilFinely grated Parmesan cheese for garnish (optional)Grease a baking sheet or pizza pan with a rim, and set aside. Bring water to a boil in a medium pot. Gradually add the chick-pea flour, with a large pinch of salt and pepper, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Reduce to a gentle bubble, stir in the olive oil, and cook for just a minute.Scoop the chick-pea mixture onto the prepared pan and spread into an even layer. Let cool for a few minutes, and then cover loosely with parchment or plastic.Refrigerate until chilled through, about 30 minutes (but up to a day, covered tightly after it's completely cool).Pour enough oil to come to a depth of at least Z\, inch (¼ inch is better) into a large skillet over medium heat. Meanwhile, cut the chick-pea mixture into 3-by-½-inch fries (or into triangles, or rounds using a cookie cutter). Gently put batches of the fries in the hot oil, gently rotating them for even cooking and browning on all sides, about 3 to 4 minutes.Drain the fries on paper towels, and immediately sprinkle with salt, lots of pepper and a good dusting of Parmesan if you like. Serve hot or at room temperature with lemon wedges or sauce. (The book includes recipes for eight sauces to serve with chick-pea fries: fast tomato sauce, spicy Indian tomato sauce, chimichurri, garlic mayonnaise, ketchup, yogurt sauce, raita, chutney and tahini sauce. The tahini sauce recipe is featured below.)Makes 4-6 appetizer servings.

Peanut and chick-pea fries: Peanut flour adds a great nutty flavor — serve savory or sweet, sprinkled with confectioners' sugar. (To make peanut flour, pulse the nuts in a food processor until they are finely ground and look like moist flour; if there are still larger bits of nut, either leave them in for texture or sift them out.If you see any bit of the meal clumping, stop processing; it's about to turn into nut butter.)Replace half of the chick-pea flour with peanut flour. Proceed with the recipe.Fabulous additions to chick-pea fries: Most of these are best stirred into the batter just before cooking.Try combinations like chopped parsley with lemon zest and capers; cilantro, green olives and preserved lemon (lemons cured with salt and spices); or sage, sunflower seeds and pecorino.• Chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chives, tarragon, dill, sage, thyme or rosemary• Minced raw garlic or several cloves roasted garlic• Chopped scallion or shallot• Grated lemon zest• Chopped or sliced black or green olives• Chopped or sliced fresh chilies• Chopped sun-dried tomatoes• Chopped preserved lemon• Chopped or whole capers• Pine nuts, pumpkin seeds or sunflower seeds.• Spice mixtures like curry powder, chaat masala (an Indian spice blend) or chili powder• Finely grated cheeses: Hard cheeses, like Parmesan, pecorino, Asiago, manchego, or Comte, added to the batter; semi-hard or soft cheeses, like Roquefort or Gorgonzola, goat cheese or mozzarella as toppings.<B><I>"How to Cook Everything Vegetarian: Simple Meatless Recipes for Great Food," by Mark Bittman (John Wiley & Sons, $35)</I></B>