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Journey through the Holy Land

TIME OF CHRIST — Fishing boats on the Sea of Galilee resemble those used in Jesus’ day.
Following the steps of Jesus

Easter is a time when Christians revisit the story of Jesus. Although the story can spark renewed devotion, retracing Christ's Good Friday path can offer the same result.

"Before I went on this trip someone suggested to me I take my rosary and touch it to these places," said Gretchen Cararie of Valencia, who visited the Holy Land last year with her husband, Bob.

"Part of it was this spiritual awakening."

The Cararies in June attended a tour called "In the Footsteps of Jesus" organized by the Rev. Emil Payer, then of St. Mary Our Lady of Guadalupe Roman Catholic Church in Kittanning.

As part of the tour, the Cararies and 19 others flew to Tel Aviv, Israel, then boarded a bus that would follow a loose circle between Jerusalem, Bethlehem and Galilee.

Although weather-related delays reduced the trip from 10 to eight days, destinations remained as planned.

They included the Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus and his disciples prayed on the eve of his crucifixion; the site of the Last Supper; and the places where Jesus was born and ascended into heaven. They also included the discovery site of the Dead Sea Scrolls and Mount Tabor, where the Transfiguration of Christ occurred.

The Cararies said visiting the sites offered a new perspective on stories they've read in the Bible.

"It was a change to see what it was like at the time of Jesus and maybe feel some of the same things that people felt when they saw and heard Jesus speak," Bob said.

"Now when I read the Bible about a certain place, I can visualize that place."

The most memorable sites included the Via Dolorosa, the path where Jesus carried the cross. It is marked by nine of the 14 stations of the cross. Catholic services observice these stations during Lent.

"This is the walk that mirrored what happened to Jesus when he was arrested, tortured, scourged and made to carry the cross to the place where they finally crucified him," Gretchen said.

"We actually walked that walk. We carried the cross. No one person carried it. We shared (the burden)."

One thing that surprised the Cararies somewhat was the proximity of important places much closer together than expected.One example can be found in The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, which houses the last five stations of the cross. They include the spots where Christ was crucified as well as the burial tomb."You can put your hand down in a hole in the rock where the crucifix was propped," Gretchen said.The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was but one example of how churches were built over many important religous locations the first ones as early as A.D. 123. Since the crucifixion occurred circa A.D. 30, authenticity of sites is not often disputed.The Cararies said in some cases the churches are deceptive facades, since ornate icons and architecture serve as portals to primitive caves and other geologic formations.Gretchen said although the entrance to the tomb "seems very beautiful and fancy," the tomb itself is primitive and dim, with lighting provided mostly by candles.Despite its simplicity, the destination had a profound effect on visitors, she said."To many people, this was probably the ultimate place because that's where he was laid to rest," Gretchen said.The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is located in the old part of Jerusalem, which comprises sections identified as Catholic, Muslim, Jewish and Armenian."This is really the land of three religions," Gretchen said, noting Judaism, Islam and Christianity all have roots in Jerusalem, where the quadrants are wedged within a half square mile.

The first seven stations of the cross are found in the Muslim section.Although visitors to Jerusalem must pass through gates that divide the quadrants, the Cararies sensed no hostility when passing through the checkpoints.Likewise, the areas they visited sacred sites that attract tourists also seemed void of danger, partially because local laws discourage crimes like theft and partially because vendors depend on guests for their livelihood, the couple speculated."There are so few Christians left in the Holy Land," Gretchen said. "Most of them subsist on tourism."Carol Vavro, co-owner of Travel Centre of Butler on Main Street, agreed, advising travelers to exercise the same caution they would when visiting places closer to home."There are parts of town you visit and parts of town you don't," she said. "Stay with your group. Don't venture too far afield on your own. Travel using good common sense, and it's perfectly safe."The Cararies said although sheckels are used as Israel's currency, many vendors were eager to receive dollars. Many vendors even post prices in both currencies, Bob noted.Wares being sold include Nativity sets, tree ornaments and other items carved from local olive trees.Because olive trees sprout anew from existing rootstock, many believe some Holy Land trees, such as those in the Garden of Gethsemane, are genetically linked to trees that thrived in the time of Christ. According to various Web sites, however, those claims remain unsubstantiated.

Just east of the city of Jerusalem, the group also visited the Mount of Olives and the village of al-Eizariya. There, they visited the tomb of Lazarus, a man Jesus is said to have raised from the dead. Gretchen said this site served as a powerful example of Christ's love."Lazarus was just his friend," she said, noting Lazarus was a common man with no special rank in society."If he takes care of Lazarus, I think he'll take care of all of us."The Cararies said although a lack of resources was sometimes evidenced by the modest condition of religious sites, accommodations were more than adequate.Photographs of the hotels depict palm trees and swimming pools with bright, blue water a welcome oasis in June weather, which ranged between 90 and 105 degrees.Despite the hot, dry conditions, the Cararies saw many lush farm fields in collective communities called kibbutzim, which rely on innovative irrigation techniques to grow food. A professional dietitian, Gretchen said she appreciated the region's Mediterranean meals, which featured small portions, few desserts and plenty of vegetables."Even on the breakfast buffet there would be salad and vegetables you'd never think to eat for breakfast," she said. Yogurt and hummus also were staples, and fish was more commonly served than meat.The close proximity of many attractions allowed the group to stay in hotels for multiple days, however many destinations are not handicapped-accessible. Those include the stone steps Jesus walked when being arrested and a tiny entryway at the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, whose entrance in Ottoman times was made smaller to deter looters.

That church, which marks the spot where Christ was born, is a popular destination at Christmas.Although Payer's twice-yearly tours don't typically center on Christmas, he is planning a trip in 2010 to Oberammergau, Germany, where the world's largest Passion play is performed every 10 years.Payer also coordinates religious tours to Italy and France. Tours in coming months include an Italy trip in May and a Holy Land trip in June.Although he recently was reassigned to a parish in Yukon, Westmoreland County, Payer said he will continue to publicize trips through the same newspapers and diocesan bulletins."We get people from Pittsburgh, people from Erie and Johnstown," he said, noting sometimes travelers from out of state tie in to the trips through local friends.Typically, attendance ranges between 20 and 30, with most trips filling to capacity.Most trips last between eight and 11 days, and prices vary depending on time of year and destination.Payer himself cannot attend each trip he coordinates. A priest is always along, however. For information, contact Payer at 724-722-3141 or padre16201yahoo.com.

Although Israel is not much larger than Massachusetts, the Middle Eastern country contains a culturally diverse population.Hebrew is the official language, but Arabic and English also are spoken.Of the country's 7,282,000 residents, 77 percent are Jewish, 16 percent are Muslim, with 2 percent each Christian and Druze. The remainder of the population is unspecified.Located at the eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea, the country is bordered by Egypt, Jordan and Lebanon.Israel's Mediterranean climate ranges between long, hot, dry summers and short, cool rainy winters. The terrain includes dessert, mountains and coastal planes.The country's economy is 82 percent services, 16 percent industry and 2 percent agriculture. Israel's GDP has grown by about 5 percent annually since 2003. The economy grew an estimated 4.2 percent in 2008, slowed by the global financial crisis.Political unrest and tension between Jews and the Palestinians in Israel has been present since the 1940s, when the state of Israel was declared.Source: Wikipedia and the CIA World Factbook.

Fish was more commonly served than meat in Holy Land meals. Here, tilapia, called St. Peter's Fish, is served whole with a side of fries. Meals overall featured smaller portions, few desserts and plenty of vegetables.
Bob and Gretchen Cararie of Valencia, who visited the Holy Land last June on a tour called "In the Footsteps of Jesus." The gold-domed mosque in the background is an example of Jerusalem's diverse religious heritage, which includes Christianity, Islam and Judaism.
Tour members carry a cross while walking the Via Dolorosa, traditionally held to be the path Jesus followed to the crucifixion. The Cararies said this part of their trip included some of its most memorable sites.
Attired in a Pirates cap, Bob Cararie checks out the entrance to the tomb of Lazarus, Jesus’ friend who was raised from the dead.
The Chapel of the Ascension, the site where Jesus isthought to have ascended into heaven. Early versions ofthe church were open to the sky. The dome was addedafter the fall of the crusaders, when the structure wasused as a mosque.

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