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A Novice's Version of Erna Gaston's File Gumbo

1 cup vegetable oil1 ¼ cups flourFor the shrimp stock1 pound shrimp, with heads and shells2 quarts water½ teaspoon crab boil seasoningsFor the gumbo:½ pound Louisiana hot sausage½ pound smoked sausage, such as Andouille2 tablespoons vegetable oil½ pound beef stew meat, cut into ½ -inch pieces4 chicken wings, separated into drumettes and wing tips3 chicken necks1 slice raw ham, cut into ½ -inch pieces (see note)4 chicken gizzards, chopped2-3 quarts water, divided1 cup chopped onion¼ cup chopped garlic3 bay leaves½ green bell pepper, chopped3 green onions, chopped3 crabs, cooked, cleaned and broken in quarters1 dozen oysters, with their liquid3 teaspoons dried thyme¼ cup chopped parsley, or more, to your likingKosher salt, to tasteFresh cracked pepper, to tasteGumbo file, to taste (see note)To make the roux: In a heavy-bottomed skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Once the oil is hot but not smoking, add flour all at once, turn the heat down to medium-low, and stir constantly with a wire whisk until roux is several shades darker than peanut butter. (Experiment here. If you prefer more intense flavor from very dark, expect to cook it for more than an hour.)If necessary, reduce the heat as you're cooking to prevent the roux from burning. (If it burns, discard the entire mixture and start over.) Set aside to cool.To make the shrimp stock: Shell and de-vein the shrimp, reserving the heads and shells.Place the heads and shells in a pot with 2 quarts water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Let the stock simmer for 45 minutes; occasionally skim off the impurities.Strain the stock through cheesecloth into a clean bowl; discard the shrimp heads and shells. Add crab boil seasonings to shrimp stock and set aside.To make the gumbo: If the sausages aren't fully cooked, poke them with a fork, then place them in a heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium heat. Cook thoroughly, turning them occasionally and adding a little water as necessary to prevent burning. Let cool and slice into

½ -inch-thick pieces. Set aside.Pat dry the stew meat, chicken wings and necks. Add oil to an 8-quart stockpot over high heat; once the oil is hot, add the stew meat, chicken wings and necks. Brown the beef and chicken, stirring occasionally to prevent them from scorching.Turn the heat down to medium-high and add raw ham, gizzards and sausage. Add 1 quart water. When the mixture starts to simmer, turn the heat to low. Let simmer 30 minutes.Add onion, garlic, bay leaves, green bell pepper and green onions. Stir in shrimp stock, 1 quart water and

½ to

¾

cup of roux, depending on desired thickness.Let simmer 20 minutes, then add crabs, shrimp, oysters and their liquid, plus additional water (if the gumbo is too thick). Bring back to a simmer, then cook for 10 more minutes.During the last simmer, stir in thyme and parsley, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in file powder. (Start with a little, then add more to desired thickness.)The gumbo should be thin or slightly thickened. Adjust the balance of water, roux and file powder to achieve the desired thickness.Taste again and adjust seasonings as necessary. Serve with white rice. (The gumbo tastes better after sitting overnight.)Notes: Raw ham is dry-cured ham that's sold in thin slices, such as prosciutto.Gumbo file is powdered sassafras leaves. The file adds flavor and acts as a thickener.

Original recipe from Erna Gaston. Adapted by Joan Obra.

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