Raised bed gardening: Part 1
Tall, raised beds are becoming a popular gardening option. Its simplicity of style is appealing to a wide range of gardeners.
In tall raised bed gardens, crops are grown in above-ground, framed-in boxes. A common dimension is 8 feet in length, 4 feet in width and 30 inches in height.
There are many advantages to tall raised bed gardening.
The 30-inch bed height eliminates the need to bend over or kneel when tending to plants. This feature is a huge benefit for seniors and those with physical limitations.
Tall raised beds extend the growing season by warming up and drying out more quickly in spring, allowing for earlier planting. Covering beds with fabric to protect against late frosts or pests is easy using hoops and clips.
Soil compaction is not a concern since there is no need to walk in the beds. Annual tilling or spading are unnecessary. Tall raised beds generate fewer weeds, and when detected, are easily removed.
Growing crops within arm’s reach makes watering, fertilizing and harvesting virtually effortless.
When choosing tall raised beds as a gardening option, decide in advance where the beds will be built.
Orient beds on a north-south or east-west axis to the sun, affording at least six hours of sunshine daily.
Allow sufficient room between beds for walking, mowing or using a wheelbarrow. Draw a layout of the crops to be grown, making sure that tall plants and vertical structures do not shade neighboring beds.
Because tall raised beds dry out more quickly and require more frequent watering, locate them near a convenient water source if possible. Mulching is important and will help maintain desired moisture levels; strategically situated compost bins may make mulching easier.
Building these boxes is not complicated but does require some experience with power tools and careful planning. There are many excellent online videos and resources with detailed building specifications and materials lists for ideas and instructions. Purchase materials in advance, and seek help in building and filling the boxes, if needed.
Frames are usually made of rot-resistant wood (redwood, cedar or cypress) or pressure-treated lumber. Today’s pressure-treated lumber does not contain arsenic and is a safer, and much more economical, choice. However, if you choose this option, you must add a liner to the box to ensure no contact between the wood and soil.
If you make the walls of your box out of corrugated roofing material (steel sheeting) instead of wood, and attach them to the inside of the frame, they will double as an excellent liner.
Cut all wood and metal to size in advance and build in sections. These sections will be very heavy, so assemble the units at the site where they will be used.
Always use decking screws, not nails, and properly reinforce the boxes to make them very sturdy. Otherwise, the boxes may buckle or collapse with the weight of the soil. Securely attach a section of cattle fence to the long side of your box for growing crops vertically. and consider converting the beds to cold frames for winter use.
When filling tall raised beds, customize the soil mix to meet the nutritional needs of your crops. Generally, a 70:30 ratio of topsoil to organic matter (manure, peat moss, compost) with a pH level of 6.2-6.8 is ideal.
Never fill boxes entirely with soil, because the sheer volume of material would compact the soil, impede drainage and promote anaerobic activity. Instead, fill 30-inch tall boxes to a depth of 12 to 15 inches with logs, (decomposing, if possible), branches, bark, and twigs. Then, top with soil. This technique is borrowed from Hugelkultur, a centuries old German gardening practice.
The wood base ensures proper drainage. During decomposition, the growth of beneficial fungi and bacteria are fostered, providing the perfect habitat for worms. The top layer of soil accommodates crops with long or spreading roots systems.
Once the boxes are filled, send a soil sample for analysis (https://agsci.psu.edu/aasl/soil-testing) and amend accordingly.
The primary downside to installing tall, raised beds is that they are more costly and time consuming to construct and require a great deal of soil to fill the box. But after this initial expenditure of time and resources, you will have a permanent, low maintenance, aesthetically pleasing garden to enjoy year after year, with no more bending over to work!
If you have questions about tall raised bed gardening, call the Master Gardeners of Butler County Garden Hotline at 724-287 4761, ext. 7, or email the Master Gardeners at butlermg@psu.edu.
Coming in part 2 of this column will be how to maximize your crop yields with raised bed gardens.
Corbie Eissler is a Penn State Extension Butler County Master Gardener.
