When grading cast-n-crank lures, lipless crankbaits score high, producing bass bites with little input from the angler on the other end of the line.

A more refined approach though – one that provides modifications in rigging as well as application – allows the rightful utility of the lure to be fully experienced.

One of the lipless crankbait’s classic applications is over emerging weedbeds during the spring and early summer.

“I take a pretty straightforward approach to fishing a lipless crankbait over early season weeds,” says Florida-based bass pro Bernie Shultz; straightforward perhaps, but not without it details.

Shultz uses a fairly heavy baitcasting rod with a fast tip, one capable of ripping the bait free as soon as he detects contact, preventing the lure from balling up with grass.

He makes long casts that launch the flat-sided bait past target areas such as weed edges and openings within the cover.

Line diameter is another tool Shultz uses to restrain the running depth of the lure.

Typically he starts with 15 pound test Suffix fluorocarbon line.

In areas where beds of eelgrass, milfoil and hydrilla reach closer to the surface, he’ll switch to 17 or 20 pound fluorocarbon, relying on the thicker diameter of the line to keep the lure closer to the surface.

Pennsylvania-based touring pro veteran Dave Lefebre too counts on the wiggle of lipless crankbaits to pry bass up-and-out of weed-covered flats. One of his more effective tricks was inspired by in-boat safety.

“Throughout the year I take out folks that don’t have a lot of fishing experience,” says Lefebre. “When you’re dealing with multi-hooked lures, things can get dangerous.”

Lefebre began removing the belly hook on lipless crankbaits to minimize the amount of razor-sharp projectiles.

Not only did it make the lure safer to cast, he discovered he could make strike -stimulating weed contact with little fouling.

“Lipless crankbaits run nose-down, but that belly hook is still the first one to gather up grass,” notes Lefebre. “It didn’t take long (fishing the single hooked lure) to realize we were hooking just as many fish.”

Lefebre fishes the single treble rattling bait more often than not.

He reports that even with two-hook baits, the vast majority of fish he catches are lightly hooked on the tail hook.

Another hook-related refinement he’ll employ is to replace the two treble hooks with two double hooks.

“That third tine, which rides forward, is the one that seems to catch on everything,” he said. Lefebre carries a supply of number 3, 4, 5 and 6 double hooks for such duty.

Lipless crankbait refinements exist beyond fine-tuning its use around weeds.

Shultz is among a collection of pros using a rattlebait such as a Rapala Clackin’ Rap on deeper structure, employing a method somewhere in between slow-rolling a spinnerbait and dragging a jig.

“You’re going to get hung up some, fishing it slowly like you must do, but man, you can catch some big fishing do it,” Shultz said. “You want to be in contact with the structure, or the cover that’s related to the structure, like a deep stumpbed. I’ve even seen the tactic be effective on deep bars on rivers.”

Shultz adds that the deep rattlebait pattern is a good compliment to Carolina rigging as well as casting deep crankbaits.

Sometimes the less common sound and look of a seldom used bait will turn on bass that ignore a rattlebait they more frequently see.

Lefebre’s experience with Luhr Jensen’s Sugar Shad is an example.

“The S ugar Shad is a great option when you want to throw a rattlebait, but one that doesn’t sink so fast,” says Lefebre. “It’s hollow, and a little wider of a bait. It’s great for throwing them a changeup. I like it on days when it’s really calm out, and I want a bait that I can fish slower. Or there’s only a two- foot band of water above the weeds, and I don’t want to fish the bait a hundred miles an hour.”

Jeff Knapp is a fishing columnist for the Butler Eagle.