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Winter coats getting lighter

KANSAS CITY, Mo. — For Jennifer Myers, staying warm in winter means a white cashmere knee-length wrap coat.

"It's not too practical," but it works for her, says Myers who, as couture clothing buyer for Halls specialty store in Kansas City, Mo., logs regular time on frigid New York streets.

Overland Park, Kan., real estate executive Melinda Bartling says coats are third in her priority purchases, topped only by shoes and bags. She buys at least one new coat every year, and already her wardrobe has expanded to include a metallic trench and a white double-breasted basket weave coat with empire waist, a gift from her son. Because she is in and out of her car often, she chooses layers underneath over bulk.

"I have my eye on a really cute wool blend toggle coat, which I will buy if it goes on sale," she said.

As temperatures drop, warm outerwear takes on a higher priority. But the challenge is how to ward off the chill and still look chic. You don't want to take to the streets looking like you're wrapped in a bed covering or your cat's favorite blanket.

Do you choose a puffy down, a sweeping Dr. Zhivago style or a trendy high-waisted swing topper? Do you rely on layers and a heavy scarf? Or do you just stay indoors?

Ultimately, the best choice is not just warm, but a coat that makes a significant statement about your personal style.

Marlys Arnold, an Overland Park image consultant, says nothing measures up in warmth and comfort to her aging indigo double-breasted swing coat.

Coats now tend to be lighter, shorter, more seasonless and less bulky than in recent years. With unpredictable temperatures, record-breaking warm months and heated rooms, the apparel industry has found consumers less enthusiastic about traditional heavy outerwear. Too many coats were left on the racks.

The erratic weather shift has stymied manufacturers. The Liz Claiborne Co. has hired a climatologist from Columbia University to predict the weather and help the company time shipments to retail stores, The New York Times reported in a recent front-page story. Target has set up a "climate team."

Yet the trend hasn't taken away from the styling drama. Coats tend to have added details, says Tina Hodak, St. Louis-based marketing director for Macy's Midwest. They may have high empire waists, wide collars, interesting buttons and self belts or sashes.

Textiles are often textured or in patterns such as plaid and herringbone, an especially popular look this year. Trench coats, the fashion hit of the last year, still look spiffy. The swing silhouette is favored in fashion circles, and so is the cocoon-shape that encircles you like a mother's hug.

Fabrics such as cashmere and camel hair in the higher price range are valued for durability and warmth. Alpaca, which is usually harvested from the Peruvian animal, is considered warmer than sheep's wool and higher priced, a bit of a status symbol.

Besides fur, down is among the warmest materials. The packed feathers trap the heat in tiny spaces, although the outer shell must also breathe to let moisture escape. The higher the down count, the warmer the coat.

But the news is, the new down coats are slimmer, shapelier and more fashionable. Some puffy down like coats, however, seem so light and sparse, they score more for fashion than for warmth.

So the outerwear quest goes on.

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