WALNUT CREEK, Calif. — Angie Meenan of Berkeley, Calif., is a denim devotee of the highest order.

Her closet is filled with rows of Paper Denim and Citizen of Humanity jeans that cost upward of $150.

She pays the big bucks, and gladly, for their vintage washes, trendy stitching and ability to lengthen legs and define derrieres or perform some kind of body magic.

But on a recent afternoon, Meenan, 34, was spotted wandering the aisles of Target with a pair of Levi Strauss Signature jeans, on sale for $19.99, in her cart.

"They're cute, and you never know," she says, stroking the vintagelike back pocket embroidery.

With designer denim hitting $250 a pair, value brands are wooing women by mimicking some of the high-end trickery at a lower price. Sometimes $230 lower.

That trickery: Stretch-denim that hugs all the right curves. Fading on the thighs (for a slimming look). Fancy embroidery, a hot trend. Frayed pockets. Hand-finishing, such as grinding and sanding, gives that worn-in look as if they belong to your carpenter boyfriend.

"Most of the jeans companies are hip to what's going on," says Leah Feldon, fashion consultant and author of five books including "Does This Make Me Look Fat?" "You can get the same fit and quality denim for a lesser price."

Jeans have come a long way since Levi Strauss & Co. created the world's first pair in 1873. It used to be one 501 for all womankind. Tailored fits for short, tall or curvy women were available only to those willing to pay for them. But now, hundreds of brands claim to offer the perfect fit for your pear, apple or other fruit-shaped body.

Thalia Sodi, sold at Kmart, offers a low-rise, basic stretch jean in short, average or tall for $24.99. Levi's Signature Authentics is available in low- or mid-rise, flare or boot-cut. Even Jordache, old-school purveyor of high-waisted denim, has joined the action: At Wal-Mart, the petite, regular and long fits go for $16.88.

But how do they compare with your precious Sevens? Lisa Sherwood is doing her own investigation. The Alamo sales associate's closet is filled with the full range, from Levi's to Vintage Rebels.

"I'm curious to see how they all fit," she says.

Sherwood, who works at Samantha Lee in Walnut Creek, Calif., has watched the denim market explode. Premium labels sold in her store, such as Paige, are releasing a range of jeans to satiate every type of customer.

That way, she says, customers who don't want to spend $165 on a pair of jeans can still get the prestige of the Paige label, and Paige can get into that market.

Shoppers and those in the denim industry attribute the glut to one thing: More wearing occasions.

"There was a time when you couldn't wear jeans to the Turf Club at Golden Gate Fields," she says. "Now you can."

What's more, Jean Friday has become Jean Wednesday and Thursday. When the sun goes down, jeans are the quintessential "going-out" staple. And if Karl Lagerfeld knows anything about fashion, you can even pair jeans with Chanel blazers.

"In the past 10 years, you've started seeing denim with chiffon or fur or lace, as there are less and less fashion rules," Feldon says.

Jeans are an American classic, Feldon says, and they're also a trend that is people-driven, rather than designer-driven.

"Designers who made high-end clothes started noticing that people didn't want to take jeans off because they were so comfortable," Feldon says. "So they started making them." Fashionistas jumped on the trend.

But not all were satisfied. Lisa Hallahan of Orinda, Calif., who was checking out the curvy fits at Gap, says she was disappointed in a recent high-end denim purchase. Hallahan is a self-proclaimed Levi's girl.

The designer jeans cost $175, and for that reason, Hallahan, 38, was expecting them to do something magical for her. But that was not the case.

"It wasn't worth it," she says. "I've got three kids and am on my knees gardening. I can get the same thing for $30."

Regardless of price, follow these rules to find your perfect pair of jeans:- Hourglass? Challenges in the hips and thighs? Stick to midrise waist. If you like low-rise, pair them with a longer top, like a tunic.Long-waisted folks with short legs should do the same, as low-rise shortens your body.- Petite and ruler-shaped women should go for straight leg.- Slightly hippy? A boot cut will balance you out.- Front pocket treatments and embroidery are nice, but quality is evident in washes and texture. Look for a wash that's lighter on the front and darker on the sides to elongate legs.- Back pockets should be proportional to one's rear and to the jeans. If the pockets are hitting your hamstrings or too small for your curves, stay away.- Accessorize! The key to a vintage denim look. Spice it up with a longer shirt and shorter jacket. Or velvet, chains, tunics, clunky belts, metallic scarves and piles of beads.