Do-ahead fish soup base makes for easy dinner party
Restaurants have go-to recipes — ones the cook enjoys making and the guests order over and over again. At home, I turn to one-pot soups, stews and slow-cooker meals for the same reasons.
I like to prepare a couple of fish soup bases to make dinner parties easier. When the guests arrive, I can simply reheat the base, add some fresh fish and serve with great bread and a tossed salad.
This recipe was inspired by my travels — my favorite way to keep vacation memories alive. When winter feels gray and cold, I recall the sunny beaches and the quaint fish markets.
When selecting fish for soup, look for mild-tasting, non-oily fish, such as cod, tilapia and halibut. Pay attention to how the fish was sourced; a good fish market can tell you about its provenance.
Shellfish makes great soup, so I stock frozen raw shrimp in the freezer for quick additions. Likewise, canned fish, such as salmon or lump crab, can make a delicious chowder.
Traditional recipes instruct the cook to boil the fish with its bones until the stock is flavorful and the fish falls into fine shreds. Then there are straining, pureeing and more simmering. I save time by using skinless fish fillets and prepared seafood stock — either from the freezer case at the local fish market or from the grocery store shelves.
“Chowder” just might be one of the best food words ever. If you've been lucky enough to have a bowl of a well-prepared version, you can conjure the chowder memory just by saying the word.
My favorite is always creamy and studded with bacon. Sweet corn doesn't hurt. This version calls for fresh salmon and bay scallops. I add some lump crab when I want to impress. Sharp, tangy, Louisiana-style red-pepper hot sauce adds kick.
The creamy soup base is so good, I sometimes use canned salmon in place of fresh fish for weeknights. You also could skip the fish and turn it into vegetable chowder simply by doubling the corn and adding some roasted diced red and poblano peppers.
Prep: 30 minutesCook: 45 minutesMakes: 6 servingsYou can use 1 or 2 cans (14.75 ounces each) wild-caught Alaskan red salmon and some canned crab here in place of the fresh fish for a speedy soup. Pick through the canned salmon to remove any bones or skin. I like a Louisiana-style hot red-pepper sauce with this soup; Sriracha is too sweet.1 small (3 ounces) leek, split lengthwise, rinsed2 thick slices bacon, diced (about 2 ounces)2 tablespoons olive oil2 medium (6 ounces total) yellow-skin potatoes, diced1 small white onion, diced1 large carrot, peeled, diced1 small serrano pepper, halved, seeded, minced1 quart (32 ounces) seafood stock or chicken broth1 cup frozen corn kernels1 cup heavy (whipping) creamSalt, freshly ground pepper12 ounces salmon fillet, skinned, cut into ¾-inch pieces1 pound bay scallops, rinsed1 small bunch fresh spinach, stems trimmed, well rinsed, roughly chopped, about 2 to 3 loosely packed cupsChopped fresh chivesHot red-pepper sauceRemove most of the dark green section of the leek and save for other use. Dice the white and light green portion.Put leek, bacon, olive oil, potatoes, onion, carrot and serrano into a large saucepan. Cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat until softened, about 10 minutes. Do not brown.Stir in seafood stock or broth, and 1 cup water. Heat to a boil; reduce heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring often, 20 minutes. (Base can be made several days in advance; refrigerate covered.)Reheat the base, and stir in corn and cream. Simmer over low heat, 5 minutes. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.Stir in salmon and scallops. Simmer, 2 minutes. Stir in spinach. Simmer until salmon almost flakes, about 2 more minutes. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.Garnish with fresh chives. Serve right away with warm bread or oyster crackers. Pass the hot sauce.
