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Saluting Kernel

Corn can stand on its own but it also plays well with others. Corn with lemon, orange and thyme is a delicious and wholly unexpected side dish.
Don't end summer without corn on, or off, the cob

You love corn, right? Everybody loves corn. But removing the husk, and especially the silk, can kind of be a hassle.

I have a solution. Just cook your corn — still in the husk — in the microwave for four minutes. Then cut off the stem and an inch or two of the ear from the stem side. Grab the stem-end of the ear with a towel (it will be hot) and pull the husk off the other end.

All of the silk will come off with the husk. The rest of the corn will be perfectly cooked and ready for butter. It's a good technique to know when making corn on the cob.

Corn is a vegetable that stands on its own but, given it's versatility and flavor, it also plays well with others.

I stumbled on corn with lemon, orange and thyme in a vegetarian cookbook, and was so intrigued I had to try it.

You begin with corn cut off the cob. You add it to a sautéed combination of sweet onion, lemon zest, orange zest and thyme, and cook until tender.

Sounds weird, right? But it's weirdly delicious. The citrus zest blends surprisingly well with the assertive thyme, and it all meshes with the familiar comfort of corn.

I couldn't end my summer of corn without delving into elotes, the dish popularly known in this country as Mexican Street Corn. It is said to be typically sold in Mexico by street vendors, but it is gaining popularity in this country as well.

You begin with corn cooked on a grill or a grill pan; it creates a deeper, richer flavor of corn. You brush it with butter while it cooks and slather it with either mayonnaise or crema (a Mexican sour cream) mixed with lime juice.

Add cotija cheese or feta and sprinkle it with powdered hot chile pepper. It's an unforgettable way to bring out the best in corn.

Yield: 6 servings6 ears of corn3 tablespoons butter, melted½ cup mayonnaise3 wedges lime1/3 cup feta cheese or cotija1 tablespoon powdered hot pepper, such as cayenne pepper or chile de arbolIf grilling corn in the husk: Soak corn in cold water for at least 15 minutes; use a weight such as a plate to keep them fully submerged. Place corn on grate over a medium-hot fire (or grill pan) and cook, turning frequently, until the husks are blackened. When cool enough to touch, remove the husks and silk, and place the corn back on the grate. Turn frequently until browned on all sides, basting occasionally with the melted butter.If grilling corn out of the husk: Microwave corn for 2 minutes. Place on grate over a medium-hot fire (or grill pan) and cook, turning frequently, until browned on all sides, basting occasionally with the melted butter.While the corn is cooking, mix together the mayonnaise and the juice of the limes. Slather this mixture over the cooked corn, and sprinkle with cheese and powdered hot pepper to taste.

Yield: 6 servings5 ears of corn2 tablespoons peanut oil1 small sweet onion, finely chopped1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest1 teaspoon dried thyme or 1 tablespoon fresh thymeSalt and pepperCut off the kernels from the ears of corn.In a large skillet, heat the peanut oil. Add the onion, lemon zest, orange zest and thyme, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.Stir in the corn. Cover and cook for 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until corn is tender. Taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary.Recipe from “Claire’s Classic American Vegetarian Cooking,” by Claire Criscuolo.

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