Pasta is always a conundrum as a side dish. I want it in my weekly meal plan, but then I blank on how to sauce it.

Enter Nigella Lawson. I spotted her Lemon Mushroom Pasta recently on the website Food 52 and immediately had to have it in my life. I knew it would land in my happy place.

Two things grabbed my attention: First, the cooking method. You toss sliced mushrooms in a serving bowl with lemon juice, lemon zest, olive oil and a generous amount of salt. Then you let them sit. The acidity “cooks” the mushrooms a little, softening them up, so when you toss in the cooked pasta with a little water clinging to it, you get a juicy sauce with a lot of flavor without grabbing for butter or cream.

Second, the variations are endless. Don’t have linguine? Try fettucine, or angel hair, or orchiette, or farfelle. Don’t have thyme or parsley? Skip ‘em and toss in some thawed frozen peas or lightly cooked sugar snaps, grape tomatoes or green onions. Don’t like Parmesan? Try gruyère, or manchego. Any hard cheese would work. The first time I made it, I used shiitake mushrooms. The next time, button mushrooms. Try cremini, oyster or hen of the woods.

The only things you can’t skip are lemon juice, the olive oil and the mushrooms.

Yield: 3 to 6 servings.4 cups (8 ounces) sliced mushrooms1/3 cup good-quality olive oil1 tablespoon flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) or 1½ teaspoons table salt1 small clove garlic, minced1 lemon, zested and juiced1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves8 ounces to 1 pound linguine or other pasta shape½ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped (optional)2 to 3 tablespoons freshly grated ParmesanFreshly ground black pepperBring a large pot of salted water to boil.Slice the mushrooms and put them in a large serving bowl with the oil, salt, garlic, lemon juice and zest and thyme. Stir to coat the mushrooms, then let them stand while you cook the pasta.Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to package directions. Use tongs or a pasta fork to remove the cooked pasta from the water, draining loosely so there's still a little water clinging to it. Drop it into the bowl with the mushrooms and toss together well.Add the parsley (if using), cheese and pepper. Toss again and serve.Adapted from Food 52 and “Nigella Express,” by Nigella Lawson.