Seafood and the grill. A match made in heaven. The ultimate fast food. Everything from shrimp to fish steaks and whole fish welcome smoky tones. No matter the equipment or the fuel, most seafood takes to grilling.

In this country, everyone wants to eat the same fish. We're overfishing the most popular species, and we ignore other delicious varieties. Branch out; try the mackerel, the porgy, the skate and the yellowtail rockfish.

Here's my starter guide for successful, flavorful seafood grilling all summer long:

SEASONING

I add herbs and spices judiciously. Think salt and pepper, or a rub of herbs, a spritz of citrus or a dash of good quality oil. Boost flavors after grilling with a finishing sauce or a small pat of herbed butter or drizzle of aromatic olive oil and a shower of fresh herbs.

You can purchase bottled fish seasoning, but I make my own, such as the seafood rub that follows.

For special-occasion grilling, I douse grilled fish and shrimp with a mopping sauce. Alternatively, the lemon, ginger and chive finishing sauce that follows tastes terrific on most grilled fish — especially farmed Mediterranean sea bass or brook trout.

HEAT

Good heat from hardwood charcoal or neutral-tasting gas is a must. Preheat a charcoal grill 30 minutes before cooking; plan on about 10 minutes for a gas grill. Most seafood cooks nicely directly over the heat source. Large whole fish or fish fillets weighing more than 3 pounds do better with indirect, moderate heat.

Add soaked wood chips to the coals or put them on a piece of foil set over the heat source if you like a smokier flavor.

Always heat the grill grate thoroughly before you put the fish on it. Oil the fish — not the grate — to prevent sticking.

TIMING

Leave the fish at room temperature for about 20 minutes before cooking, then set a timer for 8 minutes per inch. I can always add more time. Fish should almost flake if tested with the tip of a fork.

GRILLING FISH FILLETS

Season the fillets and oil them lightly. Grill directly over the heat. One flip is sufficient. If your grill grates are hot, the fish will release when the protein is set. For thin fillets less than ½ inch, cook 4 minutes total.

GRILLING WHOLE FISH

Make sure the fish is eviscerated, scaled and the gills have been removed. Rinse it well; pat dry. Season inside and out. If desired, fill the cavity with fresh herbs. Oil on all sides, and place on a hot grill, directly over the heat.

GRILLING SHRIMP AND SHELLFISH

Use a heavy, well-seasoned cast-iron griddle or skillet. Heat it on a hot grill until a drop of water evaporates on contact. Add 2 tablespoons high heat oil, then seasoned shrimp, scrubbed mussels or clams in one layer. Cover grill. Cook 2 minutes. Stir. Cover again. Cook until shrimp are just pink or mussels or clams have opened, 1 to 3 minutes.

PLANK GRILLING

For moist, smoky fish fillets, soak cedar grill planks in water for 30 minutes or longer. Place a seasoned fish steak or fillet, skin side down, on the soaked plank set directly on the grill. Cover the grill. Cook until the fish nearly flakes, about 20 to 25 minutes for a 1¼-inch-thick fillet. Do not turn the fish. Baste every 5 minutes with a fish marinade or mopping sauce. Remove the fish and plank to the table.

Prep: 15 minutesCook: 45 minutesMakes: generous ½ cupUse whichever dried chilies you can easily obtain — ancho are sweeter, while guajillo will be slightly spicier. If you have it, add a teaspoon or so of very finely cut dried chipotle chili for a nice kick. Use smoked paprika if you like smoke flavor. This is delicious served over grilled shrimp, mackerel and cod.2 dried ancho chilies or 4 dried guajillo chilies, stemmed, seeded¼ cup finely chopped fresh garlic (10 to 12 cloves)1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil4 to 6 fresh sage leaves, slivered, about 1 tablespoon (or ½ teaspoon dried sage)¼ teaspoon salt¼ teaspoon smoked paprika, optional2 tablespoons freshly chopped cilantroUse sharp kitchen shears to cut dried chilies into very fine strips. You'll have about ½ cup.Put chilies, garlic and oil into a small saucepan. Heat over low, watching closely, until garlic just starts to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.Stir in sage, salt and paprika if using. Cool to room temperature. Use at room temperature. Stir in cilantro just before using.

Prep: 5 minutesMakes: about ¼ cup½ teaspoon fennel seeds2 tablespoons salt2 teaspoons sweet paprika1 teaspoon each: freshly ground black pepper, dried basil¼ teaspoon each: dried thyme, garlic powder1/8 teaspoon sugarCrush fennel seeds in a mortar with a pestle (or on a wooden cutting board with the bottom of a meat mallet or rolling pin). Transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Add remaining ingredients. Cover and shake well. Store in cool, dark place for up to 1 grilling season.

Prep: 10 minutesMakes: ¾ cupI drizzle this sauce over grilled salmon fillets, whole grilled fish and quickly grilled calamari steaks.5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil3 tablespoons fresh lemon or lime juice, from 2 small lemons2 cloves fresh garlic, crushed1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger or refrigerated ginger purée½ teaspoon salt2 tablespoons each: chopped fresh chives, cilantro (or parsley)Mix oil, juice, garlic, ginger and salt in a small bowl. Stir in chives and cilantro just before using.

Prep: 10 minutesGrill: 15 minutesMakes: 4 servingsLeftovers make a great addition to salads; simply remove the skin and bones and pull the fillets into coarse shreds. Add soaked wood chips to the heated grill for added flavor.2 whole Mediterranean sea bass (about 1 pound each) or 4 whole brook trout (about ½ pound each), scaled, evisceratedSalt, freshly ground pepperFresh herbs sprigs, such as tarragon, parsley, thyme, rosemaryOlive oilLemon, ginger and chive finishing sauce, see recipeRinse fish; pat dry. Season inside and out with salt and pepper. Fill the cavities with the fresh herbs. Let stand at room temperature about 20 minutes.Meanwhile, prepare a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to medium hot.Spray or drizzle fish with oil. Place fish on grill rack directly over the coals. Cover the grill and cook 6 minutes. Carefully flip fish. Cover grill and continue cooking until fish almost flakes near the head, usually 4 to 6 more minutes.Transfer to a serving platter, and spoon some of the finishing sauce over the fish. Serve hot.